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Also, make sure you check the condition of the ABS rings. I took my running gear off at the weekend and noticed a ring was really corroded but not broken. Now have a light occasionally and pedal farts.

You do into connection unit, configurations and then change the speed setting to ABS. From memory the ignition needs to be off for this to work but I can't remember as haven't done it for a while. It gives you all the instructions as you're doing it. Below example is from a diesel with slightly...

I think it's time to lose the last word of the title..... Make sure you get some good snaps of tomorrow!

It may well be worth calling the likes of dupont and asking for a recommendation from them. If there's someone that will know it's them. I used to work for a car insurer in Tunbridge Wells and still know a lot of the estimators so will ask around to see who's good and bad. Look for PAS125 kitemark.

@R-Sport Cars LTD will know a few I'm sure I only know of motorcare in Tunbridge Wells, really can't go wrong with them but won't be cheap.

Clocks aren't clipped together properly causes that

there must be a break in the circuit for the light to be on solid. It's quite likely to be an earth if you've done the gearbox. Earth for the decoder ring is on the right top of the dash although this is likely to be working correctly as the key is recognised. The ECU earth is the one on the...

Yep, bit missing which attaches to the subframe support.

Can just about see the relays in the bottom right of this pic Another pic from the net. The small black ones. This is hot wiring of the relays to rule them out. Someone else's pic from a ph1 though so slightly different layout of relays.

Rob, that to me sounds like the immobiliser light is on solid (just read it is), few things to check. Make sure the earth on te gearbox is secured properly at both ends. As the light is solid it means the key is recognised but the immobiliser can't turn off. It's usually a hardware problem...

It can be done with CLIP although serves absolutely no purpose at all so I wouldn't waste your time!

Should be as you described. If it's n/s it's easier. Pull the hub back on the ball joint and the shaft should go in no problems. Make sure you put copper slip on the driveshaft.

I had a look at these a while ago. They are a great bit of plug and play but don't offer much flexibility if you want to change things around and have an extremely limited resale market compared to a normal piggy back ecu. If you're happy with the spec it's designed for though I'd go for it.

EPAS is great, no risk of leaks and less rotational mass on the engine.

24mm is standard. Why risk a bolt snapping and a crash for the sake of a few quid on proportionally longer bolts.

No. Nonsport is 20mm and sport is 22.

I got some OEM ones but the old design and they're perfect. I've never actually had a problem with the original design! Cheers Keith, car feels brilliant now, not like it's done 146k. Need to do the same to my cup now...

Finished fitting my whole front end refresh. Car feels brilliant now.

30 minutes to do the climate and clocks, that must be a tease, that's removing snd soldering an SMD in under a minute! I've done white clocks with red displays, looks great and very oem. Also did all the switches, radio etc. Does take some good few hours to do it properly.

25 inner 23 outer they're the same size for all ph2 no matter whether cup or non cup. I've got the part numbers somewhere if you need them

The fuel pump has a relay in the engine fuse box. Maybe its stuck in one position or there's something problem with the live from the ecu which controls it

That looks absolutely superb Mark. Huge envy of your skills and patience to have such a brilliant build on and not rush things to get it done. Just everything is brilliant, love it.

Not many updates on the clio of late as I'm just running it. I do however have a few bits to do on the 182 tomorrow as I want the car to be safe and a pleasure to drive to the alps next month. It should make the car feel like new and take thousands of miles off it. Fitting Uniroyal rain sport...

Since buying my 182 in february I have spent 65% of its cost on new parts which of course was a bit of a shock when I added it up. I kind of expect to spend quite a lot on any car I buy though. Lots of people love cosmetics over how the car drives no matter what price bracket the car is in :)

When I used to do total loss claims I would have written that off with that damage as there's potentially geo problems with the rear wheel blah blah. If you've got your estimate though and accept liab for any additional repair costs then insurance wouldn't be a bad if it goes that way.

Unplug it from the socket under the glovebox maybe

Sorry I didn't see the post. Have you tried it without bridging the connection. It shouldn't affect getting the light to show on the dash, only setting it the speed and it being held. Looking at the diagram you don't need to bridge the connection. The connection is only made when the clutch is...

That's exactly how I understand it too. If renault only supply one part now (additional castor part) then it must universally fit. I remember @AlexW putting my 182 cup set up on his car and keeping the 54mm hubs no problem. @sburrell93 knows about the subframe too me thinks.

Yeah that's my current one.

Yep these are the ones for my 182 non cup. Here are some of my reg's current and previous for use! Wah, haven't had a ph2 172 non cup! ph1 - W975 LMW or Y62 GNJ 172 Cup - GD53 NUP 182 Full fat (cup suspension 60mm hubs and cup styling pack) - KB54 HWH or HV05 FKH 182 non cup suspension - LY54...