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Cup has a more baisc interier no zeon lights or climate control it also have the cup suspension and spolier packs as standard. The full fat had the Cup packs as an option (the cars in the photo don't have the Cup pack suspension) also had zenon half leather seats, climate control.

The racers use a different ball joint.

I got stuck thinking of a better name for it anyone any better ideas?

Needs tidying but not having much free time though I migh as well post it up These are the fuses on the passenger side panel The first bit the F1 refers to its name the second bit is the best sort of descition of what the symbol is the last info is what the fuse powers os if for example if...

With the caliper brackets (ie the bit which joins the hub and the caliper together) yep you also need the bolts.

Its because the ECU is still locked there an imobiliser on the car as the ECU isn't recineving the code from the key to say its the right key. Its a common problem change the transponder ring (the bit around the ignition barrel) that will fix it. £4o ro so they are fit in ain a few minutes.

The wings themselves are bolded on but there are bits which are part off jointed to the shell from new. At the end of the day its all realy removable it woulnd't be effective to make it out of solid stucture.

Ther are no guides as its simple to fit. You want as wide band one realy and there no point. A turbo car needs it a bit more as they run wider A/F ratios to help make a bit more power they use the fuel to cool the cylinders etc plus there lambeda sensors are disengaged more I belive...

Vauxhall Corsa do center bore in wrong though they need enlargin. Some other Renault stuff does.

Forget the bushes there more harm than good. Only the toe they can adjust the rest needs to be cnaged to be adjsuted ie Camber so so long as its near stock its fine.

Just keep looking on the trader biggest place out there.

As dampers wear they become less good at damping so its like being on a water bed/pogostick if you get the anthology the car slow down at being able to stop moving up and won when you hit a bump as it should do.

Yep should do. I'd stick with your box though for the effort. You'd got a Halnes so the best idea is for me to tell you where it is its part 46 on the top drawing (9.1b) of page 7A-12 using that an the drawing at the front of that part will show you were it goes it goes up the place you...

Thats not an issue. Normal.

Don't need compressor to do the 172 realy its not a bad idea but if you know what your doing there no need. As for the jacks well personal preference its good practive after all its there life but no huge issue so long as the jack doesn't fail and wusing two you should be ok.

Just replace the bit and see might get lucky and the bit won't get into thr working just sit at the bottom of the box you might be unlucky and it get into and chi a tooth etc its a risk. You could yep do it when removing the shaft.

Sounds like the tensioner and or belt need changing. You can usually tell as it start when your getting cloe to when they should be changed anyway.

Arr right I knew I made a mistake they corrected me but it just didn't sink in. Will drop you a PM in a minute when I've cleared up some space.

Second sensor is used to check the emmisions after the cat are correct its not involved in any other way. Nope idle won't be affected. 172/182 have a slight poor idle it shoulnd't be noticiable though just a little lumpy, rpm on the counter shouldn't realy move. Renault Liverpool though...

Drop me an email I'll send you the file eddeuk at yahoo.co.uk

They can just give you you PUC code as they did to me when I asked for it without ofering any deal to keep you so its a risk.

I've been menaing to look at your thread about your car not going for ages if this was broken before ou took the shaft out them yep this would show why yor car not moving. I'm sure someone on the thread has mentioned this though.

7.1 hours is the book figure to do them.

New from Renault about £80 or so. GSF etc say £50~60

Valvers and Williams use the same valve I'm sure. I mean to adjust you set is so there no load on it when the car at normal height and when the back lowers some load come on it. Trial and errors the popular way though.

Off throttle your engine won't be injecting any fuel apart from whats needed to idle the engine I belive so no savings. You want to add fuel i think.

Just take it in the dealership will know what it is. The rest in in the gearbox somwhere you've two options 1 strip the box down and find it 2 leave it and get as much fluid out as you can etc. Its only a few pence under £5 I'm sure. 70p rings a bell.

Its not exactly a well desinged engine no need for power designed for more torque at lower rpm. Proper bedding in needs to be done in the first 25 miles or so you need to get the engine under full load a few times to ensure it beds in well as has been discussed on here time and time again.

I agree superb quick cars for the money and age etc. And spec even on the Cup superb realy.

Should be changed ASAP I've heard of them failing at 60k. There two belts I think or there the AUX belt as well both should be chnaged at once £500 or so I think. Plastic coolent pumps on them so get them chnaged with the belt.