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hehe yeah Joe, thats some good theory you got there mate, but a seasoned 1/4 miler will tell you you cant just knock off time like that for a few extra hp.
I am using a progressive but no-one floors it immediately unless they have proper modern traction control or 4wd. you gotta let the...
Well Im moving to South Africa then. Stage 1 and 2 seem about the same as you get in the UK, except s1 here doesnt involve a Unichip, usually the tuners own job. Better off with the Unichip but it needs mapping on the rolling road.
Your stage 1 would cost over here £700-£800! Stage 2 is...
Close run thing, theyre pretty much equals, maybe the 205 will take it (just) in a straight line if driven well. Ive only raced one at the traffic lights grand prix once last year, a 1.9 and I caned him, but he was only a young lad and probably wasnt that good at starts...
hehe yeah Joe, thats some good theory you got there mate, but a seasoned 1/4 miler will tell you you cant just knock off time like that for a few extra hp.
I am using a progressive but no-one floors it immediately unless they have proper modern traction control or 4wd. you gotta let the...
Well Im moving to South Africa then. Stage 1 and 2 seem about the same as you get in the UK, except s1 here doesnt involve a Unichip, usually the tuners own job. Better off with the Unichip but it needs mapping on the rolling road.
Your stage 1 would cost over here £700-£800! Stage 2 is...
Close run thing, theyre pretty much equals, maybe the 205 will take it (just) in a straight line if driven well. Ive only raced one at the traffic lights grand prix once last year, a 1.9 and I caned him, but he was only a young lad and probably wasnt that good at starts...
What Joe means is that the thing BB are selling to advance the timing has the effect of moving the sensor so that it sends a wrong signal to the ECU to make it advance the iginition. Because this is a fixed amount of error sent to the ECU, you get a fixed amount of extra advance across all the...
The high idle problem is often down to a faulty thermostat that basically tells the ECU to choke when the engines already warm and not choke when its cold.
Well mine was a Dash Dynamics one and it looks cheap to be honest. Although that was a well dodgy carbon fibre effect. i told my wife it was a 3d effect according to the blurb, as she was peeling it off and laughing at it. She said it was more like a 3p effect. I had to agree.
Wongys one...
OK quick run-down, firstly cheers to everyone there today, made my first proper trip up North a great day.
Special thanks to Craggy for putting me up for the night, it was slim pickings around Doncaster Saturday night, thoroughly caned a VTS but no-one else wanted to have it around the town...
OK quick run-down, firstly cheers to everyone there today, made my first proper trip up North a great day.
Special thanks to Craggy for putting me up for the night, it was slim pickings around Doncaster Saturday night, thoroughly caned a VTS but no-one else wanted to have it around the town...
Dunno about mental clutches but to be honest, I use a standard Williams clutch and put an estimated 250bhp/250lbft through it and it takes it easily.
Like *any* clutch, if you do too many standing starts youll burn it out. Doesnt matter how uprated a clutch is, doing launch after launch...
Yeah but the rear arch on a 16v is a common rust spot. There are plenty out there without a rusty rear arch so why get one that shows that with a previous (or maybe even current!) owner it wasnt looked after?
On top of which if for some reason it knackers your engine (which I can guarantee 15w50 wont) then youd have a pretty good case that Halfords published data that recommended that grade of oil and sue them!
Get the Mobil 1 15w50. Its not a real problem if the 2nd number is higher by a bit. But if you go lower with the first number then its no good.
Ie. Renault recommend 15w40, so 15w50 is ok, but 10w40/5w40/0w40 would not be.
You must keep the lower number correct.
Nice move Jilly, itll really handle well once youve dropped it a bit. Another thing that the insurance companies might not have thought of, but is good news for us, is that a lowered car is a harder to wheel clamp or to nick the wheels off - cos if its low enough a standard jack wont get under...
Flames mean unburnt fuel in the exhaust system. If your V6 is flaming then you wanna get it seen to Dash. The air/fuel ratio must be slightly off,and fuel will damage the cat if its going down the manifold.
Yeah but the rear arch on a 16v is a common rust spot. There are plenty out there without a rusty rear arch so why get one that shows that with a previous (or maybe even current!) owner it wasnt looked after?
On top of which if for some reason it knackers your engine (which I can guarantee 15w50 wont) then youd have a pretty good case that Halfords published data that recommended that grade of oil and sue them!
Get the Mobil 1 15w50. Its not a real problem if the 2nd number is higher by a bit. But if you go lower with the first number then its no good.
Ie. Renault recommend 15w40, so 15w50 is ok, but 10w40/5w40/0w40 would not be.
You must keep the lower number correct.
Nice move Jilly, itll really handle well once youve dropped it a bit. Another thing that the insurance companies might not have thought of, but is good news for us, is that a lowered car is a harder to wheel clamp or to nick the wheels off - cos if its low enough a standard jack wont get under...
Flames mean unburnt fuel in the exhaust system. If your V6 is flaming then you wanna get it seen to Dash. The air/fuel ratio must be slightly off,and fuel will damage the cat if its going down the manifold.