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Generally beeps are when the door/bonnet/boot is ajar, as for starting id imagine it could be an immobiliser issue if you need to blip it open/close which in turn would turn immobiliser on/off. I'd check all doors first and pop bonnet/ boot and slam shut, then if still a fault diagnostics should...
If you don't have controls you will need stalk adapter and patch lead. Adapter will depend if your factory radio was tuner list or update list, best person to give a shout is Matt (MTAudio), very competitive price, alternatively I'd go to dynamicsounds - excellent service (but I'd prefer to help...
James- try cleaning out socket with contact cleaner, also in some cases the prongs on the charges do no spring out enough to earth within the socket, so could try bending them out a bit (carefully)
Search 'headlight restoration', 3M kit works really well (used on previous cars myself), but lots of people on here talk about it too, I'm sure one the the threads covers 'sealers' also, to help prolong shine
If there's an aux source and no iput on facia then more than likely be rear input, some are RCA-Aux, and some are 3.5mm, no way of telling till you pull it out
If it's a screen I'd presume if there was an aux in rear then there would be an icon on screen (if touchscreen) that would be grayed out, or a source would show aux also, what's make/model of stereo?
The aa use a company called dekra - it's cheaper to go to them direct, when I got my mr2 (London and I'm based in edinburgh), they provided a very comprehensive inspection, that said they only inspect and speculate on driveway/ roadside - no lifting, so if there's something not obvious it could...
Where have you earthed the amp? Also if uncertain most Halfords stores (bigger ones) have a test rigs for subs/amps, if you plug it in there it would eliminate whether or not the amp is at fault, just a thought
Can't imagine iPod drain would be sufficient enough to drain battery, but you could always identify constant supply to control box then reroute to an ignition feed (prob cig is closest), but I'd check with connects2 if that would void the warranty on the box if it's not designed to be switched
This should be the correct lead for clio 182, I presume your factory radio was tuner list and have a display up top with clock/temp. Connects2 I found were generally better as you could mis-program autoleads if you connected in wrong order.
First thing I would do is unplug controls from audio...
Reckon this could be the same issue as mine? I had the pump replaced last year and all been fine, but recently some noise on first start of the day, best way to describe is that it sounds like a mini when turning, but after driving for under 30secs it disappears and doesn't sound again until the...
Change the blown fuse? Your aftermarket stero should have 2 power sources (yellow) and (red), one will be ignition and one constant. I'd imagine if your clocks not working correctly it will be constant, you will need a manual or multimeter to identify
Not got an answer, but recently I've noticed a noise from ps on start up, sounds like a rubbing noise, but once engine is warmed up it goes away. Apologies for hijacking ;), but cld these be similar?
When I had a squealing noise I has pas pump replaced, and this fixed it. That was around 1year...
Imagine straight plug and play, buy unless 2nd hand then tomtom unit I presume will be a lot more expensive than standalone - any ideas how much it was as an upgrade option on new?
H1 bulbs only have 1 connector and h7 have 2- so depends on the wiring on the new headlight as what would fit the connector,
I'm sure the h7 has a '+' and '-', and the h1 is just '+' as the bulb earths off the housing,