Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
yeah so that's why you want to make sure they are pressed on tight, so when the motors reset to off it doesn't cause them to move and become inaccurate
I've got EPAS on my van, it doesn't feel as nice as the HPAS but the thing FLYS though the revs, I've never had a 172/182 that revs the way it does, and its a standard engine.
makes getting the engine out easier too which is handy if you enjoy that sort of thing lol
Yeah not hard enough onto the motor so its moving. The calibration test doesnt actually calibrate it, just lets you move the dial to make sure its hitting the correct points 10, 20, 30 etc
the needles pressed onto the motors properly? whenever I do a set, I fire it up and run the calibration test so they are set properly, ensure they are pressed down onto the motor properly and that's all they need.
Are all the exterior lights working? I'm sure I've come across a problem before with no interior lights and it was a blown fuse due to wiring on one of the exterior lights, it was years ago
pretty reliable and cheap to fix when they do go wrong. You have to remember though its a 15+ Year old car, its going to have odd issues here and there, some parts are going to be harder to find (rear ABS sensors and handbrake cables come to mind)
looks good, much nicer sitting a little lower. Really enjoyed my time in my 220. Id wrap that front blade black, i think that would set the front end off nicely
Good work, Jesus those tints are dark! I like seeing people play with parts from other models to make upgrades like you have done with the scenic bits!
na I managed to do it with it in place, I removed the support brace that goes across the length of the subframe to get my hand up, removed the heat shield material that covers the bulkhead and rack etc, I was lucky I was doing it on a 4 poster but I was alone so it was constant up and down to...
Still been loving this, not been much to report until this week, I picked up a 200 gearbox with the shorter ratios, going to pull it apart and do the 3rd and 4th gear syncros and swap it over. Ordered a new genuine clutch, slave cylinder and gearbox mount for when i get round to that, hopefully...
given the clutch makes no difference then it can really only be the tyre, wheel, driveshaft or bearing?
check the driveshaft hub nut is tight, sure they are like 280nm or something, seen them not torqued properly make odd noises
haha yeah the comments from the neighbours have got a bit boring on the subject! I've tried a few other things but nothing ticks all the boxes as well, and cheaply!
ive had to put a thermostat on every one of mine, first thing i do when i buy one as they never get up to temp properly. New thermostat and coolant flush and they are good as gold again!
Find someone local or a specialist with clip and they will be able to activate it, a dealership will be doing it but its just finding one friendly and interested enough to want to do it, getting a tech to do it wont be an issue as a lot of them are our type of people but its getting through the...
That was my cup on Eibach Pro Lines - sat pretty much standard to me (maybe a tad lower since cups did always look very high at the front) but certainly didn't look "lowered"
been a couple of times when FCS was there 2009 and 2010 I think I was there? always thought it was a pretty cool place if a little disused! used to like watching the BTCC races there on TV
Jesus! That would never have been an expensive fix when you had good compression. A decent diagnosis rather than the parts cannon would have been a start