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On closer inspection on the PMS website there are options for two types of flywheel.
Standard clutch and race clutch.
Assuming you have bought the standard clutch fitment option, there should be no reason it's the flywheel at fault here I'd say.
I think most instructors are like that initially, they want you to get the basics right so that you're in control of the car.
They don't want to be in a precarious position when you're balancing on the brakes and blipping the throttle.
In RWD cars it's even more important I think to prevent...
You love that limiter don't you 😂
If it's still on standard valves I would strongly advise not to bounce of it like that haha.
Possibly practice some heel and toe rev matching on the downshift to be kinder to the drivetrain.
Looking face on at the disc, if you were to push/pull the caliper is should slide.
Once you've got the right spacers on there it should all fit really easily.
The reason you couldn't get your caliper carrier back on with the pads in is because the caliper slides in and out, or at least it should do.
If you pull the caliper in and out it should move.
Yeah i fucked the Karcher tangled mess off a few years ago for their anti tangle one.
So much nicer to use combined with the stubby lance from Autobrite Direct.
Possibly, although you'd tend to hear it slipping.
Not sure that marking it would work as for every full revolution the belt does, the alternator pulley would do x amount of turns. Meanwhile the marks would only line up once every certain revolution.
As I mentioned earlier in the thread, 13mA is f**k all really.
But it does sound like your alternator is dead if it's cutting out whilst turning lights on.... Maybe it's not been charging the battery after all, and that's why your battery keeps dying?
Stage 2 would be intercooler and decat I would imagine.
RSTuning in Leeds are the main ones for tuning these.
Possibly EFI Parts in Runcorn as well, but you'd have to ask.