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if it is a stainless steel bar, welded to the chassis, what would be the problem?? (http://www.k-tecracing.com/show_product.asp?id=210&appid=1) you can surely only mount harnesses to a 6 point welded cage.

are all 4 point harnesses long enough to do this?? or do you have to buy special ones?? i too want to do this, can someone confim that if the bar is properly weleded in place, it is safe to use?? and any links to the harnesses, and where to get a harness bar from, would be great :P

sorry didnt realise you were only 16, perhaps not an engine just yet, imo, steer clear for any styling mods that wernt originally featured on a renault, (lexus lights and such) get the sitckers off, lower it a large amount, get an exhaust, perhaps sort out the holes in the bumper. if...

i do the occasional bit of handbrake action in the snow where theres nothing to break buy myself, but putting on Cliosport=fail! please take the banter on the chin, and learn from your mistake!

tbh dude, as a mk1 fan, im not liking most of it, mainly because youve called it a race build! (i stripped a 1.2 and had buckets, but id NEVER claim it to be a race build, just call it your own build, race implies engine work and weight saving mods lol) show cage? sub? stickers? WILLIAMS...

my thoughts exactly!

I quite like it, its an F4Rd mk1, and isnt a valver so quite sleeper, not sure about using electric throttle though as jord said. and perhaps the sellers severly dyslexic (sp) if he did the work himself, then he clearly has a lot more knowledge than 90% of people on this forum!

MOTs not due for a while so i cant see how thats relevant lol. surely it would be better to have matching on rear, save the dif from being constantly spinning. hmm, ill stick to short drives until after christmas.

tbh, it will probs be until the new year since i planned to buy a whole new set the anyways! i dont do many miles though

putting a 195/50/15 spare on my car, all other tyres are 195/45/15?? obvs ill put it on the back, but will i notice the difference in driving?

a while of adjusting, the rears are custom 90mm springs, but its sat on bump stops, so i moved it up and down for weeks until i was happy! no rubbing on the front or rear, et38 wheels with 30mm spacers on the front, and 25mm spacers on the rear, 165/50/15 tyres there is no room between the...

are they not basically a road legal track tyre like the r888? i dont really want to worry about trying to keep heat in the tyres and such to make them grip! so its down to Contisports PE2 KU31 rainsport 2s

Went to help a mate out this evening, and had to swing by his mates house, who competes in the formula2000 with his own team. I took some snaps of the car, and the workshop, sorry for the quality of my phone pics, workshop wasnt very big! Now the more eagle eyed enthusiast will...

as far as im concerned, its stupid doing any suspension mods before upgrading your tyres, i have a set of semi budget on the back of my car, and i can really feel the difference, i hate not having tyres you can trust. these KU31s sound quite good, but is it really worth getting them over...

turbines off the original valvers, or williams wheels, but if you have to be a sheep ;) get turinis or 172 wheels, 182 wheels look gash on anything but a 182 imo

lol youre brace, it could be that the bumpstop is taking too much of the weight, and the spring isnt being compressed enough to make it bound up properly when the weight is off, meaning the shock isnt held tight in place my the force of the spring, making a knocking noise, but thats all i could...

find a poverty spec mk2, change the mechs over! manual winders wont fit the standard door cards, but that doesnt seem to matter to you.

I dont do spirited wet driving, and lowering road noise does not interest me in the slightest. in light of this, would you still reccomend them over PE2s and such?? cheers

please read my first post! i dont want comments on "value for money", im going to splash out on tyres this time, so im not bothered about saving a few bob buying cheaper tyres. and its not about buy cheap, then replace, its about having tyres that arnt going to let you down when you need them...

could people state their opinion on various tyres? rather than just state what tyres they use! not just state what tyres they use! that doesnt really help me as i dont intend to try them all! and fubar, im looking for a bit more than "pretty good" lol, closer inspection of the hankook rs2...

hankook rs2 look very impressive! on speedline vegas (standard valver wheels 6.5J) can/should i go for 195/50/15 or 205/50/15?? does it warrant paying the extra £25 per tyre for the 205?

ive had Sdrives in the past, and wasnt overly impressed with them, not as much as i was with the contisports. im going to have a look at the hankooks and rainsports, but its so hard to find people actually running the tyres! :(

cheers steve, glad ive got lots of photos to remember her by! best place to pick up wheels like that are on here tbh, and if personally on a non sport, id purchase the rokkor coilover kit, and get creative, just mess about for ages until you find your perfect stance! as for rural roads! man up...

i was looking at the yoko's, but i dont mean to sound too arrogant, but atm, my budget can go abit further, and id like to take advanage of that!! has nobody else got an opinion on this?

please refer to post #7

but if you go crazy on the offset of the wheels you bought, the wheels will sit right out of the arch and you wont need spacers!

it depends completely on the speakers, if the RMS on the speakers is high, then an amp would make a difference, if the RMS of the speakers is similar to that of the headunit, then its really not gonig to make a large amount of difference. but yes, using dynamatt to seal the doors and such...

easiest way to tell if they need replacing is the bump test, push the corner of the car down with all your weight, it should go down, come up slightly hider than standard, then settle at the standard height, if it keeps on bouncing, they knacked. also check for fluid leaks! those coilovers...

you cant have it all dude, stripped out car, and pumping tunes. lol. i still crank my stereo, good headunit and good speakers will mean they can still go just as loud as when amped, or just bracket a sub to the floor, cant imagine it will sound very good with no interior though!

you wont notice barely any difference dude, i used to have all the speakers in my car amped, now ive got a stripped out valver, i run them off the headunit, complete waste of time amping door speakers unless youre a rear audiophile,