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Does your gearstick move when putting your foot down?
I'm running a vibratechnic solid mount purely for the fact everything else is solid. I think gearbox wise OEM brand new can be decent. It's whether you take the punt and fit and forget solid. Your choice!
I'd take a look at the polybushed...
Mine doesn't seem to be wearing the carpet or damaging it but it is initially a little hard to move. I never move my seat anyway as I HATE adjusting it.
Access the nuts from under the car (2 are hidden behind grommets) then tilt it forwards and backward to reveal the spacers clipped in...
I've posted in my thread with a reply to you if you've seen.
There are 3 additional bolts to remove. If you put a jack under the engine or gearbox, then remove the top nut and 2 smaller bolts on the Centre mount itself then lower the jack slightly and tap the mount with a hammer it'll pop it...
You can get away without removing it as you can just grind the captive off the back through the wing then nut and bolt it unless it's moved.
There's 3 bolts down there that need removing to access the main mount if your 4th is snapped. Shouldn't need to remove the gearbox mount itself.
If you...
Most likely battery going off the symptoms of the needle flickering rapidly. They do this when low.
I wouldn't worry, cold weather kills batteries. Just put a multimeter on the terminals whilst running to check it's voltage
I used the red powerflex ones and got no noticeable added vibration. Everything else is black series powerflex though so maybe I just don't notice it!
They fitted really easily with a vice. Just need to make sure that all the old rubber is cut out and use fairy liquid on it all.
The only gripe...
You can get away with removing the driveshaft by removing the tre and balljoint, pushing wishbone down and turning hub right round on lock. It's tight but you can remove the shaft.
Took me months to find my new BG bonnet and that's not without dents (has a couple very minor ones that I'll get a dent man on eventually).
They all seem to be pressed in in the front edge
Think ive sorted it.
Rushed home after work and got it in the air. Removed the caliper and disc and found some threadlock congealed on both hub face and brake disc. I had recently redone them on this side and to save time not removed the caliper (laziness).
I believe this has led to the disc...
I never use it because it's out of date back to 2004 haha. Its not the best tbh, kind of annoying as it comes on with the ignition automatically and there's no way to stop it from doing it that I can see.
It has a larger top dash centre section correct. Few photos in my build thread
I'm running no disc screws, but I'm sure my wheel nuts are tight. I only checked them on Monday and everything is brought together tight with the nuts iirc
I'm tempted.
My bilstein Allen heads are starting to round which is frustrating. They're not too bad but they're on their way.
I'm going to carl tomorrow if he provides the lighter I'll provide the petrol
Yep.
Its had new bearings up front. Sounds like it's coming from passenger side.
I'm not running disc retaining bolts as they made my spacers not sit flush. This shouldn't be an issue as everything is tightened with the wheel nuts?
Just noticed when driving that at very low speeds when coming to a stop there's an intermittent rotating scraping noise. Sounds very much like metal on metal just catching as it's not a constant noise but it is at regular intervals.
Am I right in thinking this will be pad/disc related? I'll get...