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Lazy fpr. Prime the pump twice before you try to start it. Should start straight away

Only F4r hg fails I've seen have been from detonation or huge overheating (no water left at all)

Nitrous..... Gasket itself is exceptionally good for standard. Detonation will have caused the failure

I'd like to see someone use the 1.2 turbo engine in a mk2. Aside from that, dont bother, just make sure it's running as well as it can be with proper servicing

so over £30 once you've put P&P on.......

I normally do a kit for £30 including p&p

the manifold to decat gasket will be worn out so not putting the springs under enough tension

they're not a lot of money from renault to be fair, about £55 a side

Genuine are KYB if you can get hold of them, Wish they'd bring out AGX (adjustable damping) versions, superb on other cars.

ok for a while, bend and crush too easily then start to peen over the edges of the slot. Constant f**king maintenance with these things.

Only time I've had an issue with getting timing right was when the pulley locking tool started to wear out the washers and the sprockets slipped. New washers every usage until I bought a brand new tool

easy enough, but then I've used them for about 13 years now. Just need to make sure the floor is as flat as it reasonably can be, then you're just adjusting the track rods to adjust toe

normally take one out to help find TDC. Quite like having some resistance tbh

socket on an extension, onto the end of the stud (protects the thread and stops you slipping) then hit with a hammer. Pop

Just looked, not sure why i got no pictures, but it's in the background of these

Think i've always done it to a different sequence, 60Nm plus 300degrees rings a bell (been 3 years since i did one now) I ate far too many on an empty stomach, gave me chest pains lol. Bring me moaaarrrr!!!!!

yes, if the pulley has play in it then you wont be able to set the timing accurately

lambda will definitely effect it noticably. Not by that much though IMO. Cam timing check first off, then if thats right (doubt it) look elsewhere

i had this in today, car bought 2 weeks ago, with belts done about 7k ago, but no reciept rocker cover had been resealed....without cleaning the old sealer off, and the new cam seals had been fitted on the piss. Leaked nicely on the belt and the timing was out by a mile i...

I use those along with a magnetic camber gauge

Sport cat, £300, done. I'm unconvinced that the cat would cause you to fail emissions though, only time I've seen them be a problem is when they actually fall apart internally. sounds like another issue Braided brake lines are normally an off the shelf item, I wouldn't replace with standard...

dont guess, remove the undertray (4 bolts) and have a look

you'll need to take the undertray off to see really, and also it'd be nice to know if it's gearbox oil or engine oil

check your oil level, you might have lost your sump plug

use a fork type balljoint splitter, or even better as you have the driveshaft out the way, just hit the top of the balljointwith a hammer and drift. I've used an air hammer on this in the past when they're really rusted up

between £500 and £700 per car for a long weekend, depending on where you stay, and how well you eat, based on 2 people in a car

between £500 and £700 per car for a long weekend, depending on where you stay, and how well you eat, based on 2 people in a car

would have used thixo originally, but IIRC it's not available now. Just decent RTV silicon will do fine, it's about how it's applied more than what is used. most people miss the bottom corners and dont use enough, be generous with it, and smooth it off after.

easier to pull the lump out of the 5 surely? no PAS lines or anything. Be aware that it's not at all unusual for the leat to actually be from the crank bearing cap rather than the crank seal, so you might need to remove that too anyway

I do mostly, but not this week. Call me tomorrow