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something rubbing....... air leak.......could be down to loads of different things

i'd need to check water pump price (rare they ever need to be changed) but it would be under £700 easily

if it's a 1.2, then 10w40 semi synth oil is fine.

is this the one that changes the bottom crank pulley? If so it's going to be a necessity to have the cambelt locking tools

are you having a stupid hour? he'a already said it's £240 labour on top of the £493 for parts

or stupid. I make it very clear that there's no warranty on anything i dont supply

didn't see the water pump actually, my bad. you forgot to add the 2 prices together though, one is the parts th other is labour, so he's been quoted £737

about £100 more than i charge all in, give or take a few quid

Gaz showed me some vids when he was behind you in his valver. I'll try to find them edit..first few seconds is the best bit, lol!!

you might have got away with that, if it hadn't have been for that pesky power steering, awwww bless, too heavy to turn the wheel without some driver assistance

sounds like wiring loom issue to me, corrosion in the temp sensor wires and plug is common

it wasn't part of the group when it was developed ;) bit of a left over from when the company was aquired

309 wasn't even meant to be a peugeot. Last minute badge engineering. Its a Talbot I'd still have a goodwood though

205 1.9 gti over anything, ever. oh, and anyone that says the 1.6 handled better is on drugs, it just had less power, nothing else. Really didn't like the 1.6 for having to rape the engine to make it go anywhere

you have a 1.2 16v, so your loom is fucked. It'll get gradually worse ;) Dunn, needs plugging in to PROPER diagnostics kit, not a cheap code reader. It could be as simple as a sparkplug, or a lead, but you need to narrow down if it's lacking spark or fuel, and on which cylinder(s)

right, all ph1's had the twin cat, but very early ones had only 1 lambda sensor. If you have a post cat lambda sensor, then you can use a ph2 cat

as 5's go it's quite a nice one. Having a bit of a special engine built, and fuel injection at some point

it's a 318 touring, the guy who owns it is ex BMW, so he's got a few including an e28 M535

i'm going to disagree.....my impact gun undoes driveshaft nuts without blinking, and they're 280Nm. Wheel bolts would have snapped long before getting that tight

see, having grown up with my stepdad owning several XJRS's, that is a lovely successor IMO.

lol, sounds like you bought a peach

lot of "clever" people on here today. AC being on could potantially sap 10bhp, about the same as adding a decent set of cams would gain you. Now everyone will say they noticed the difference adding the cams, so why wouldn't you notice a 10bhp drop? Still in doubt, drive up a hill and turn AC...

lot of "clever" people on here today. AC being on could potantially sap 10bhp, about the same as adding a decent set of cams would gain you. Now everyone will say they noticed the difference adding the cams, so why wouldn't you notice a 10bhp drop? Still in doubt, drive up a hill and turn AC on...

half it, then take a bit more off. Thats what i'd charge.

Found some more pictures :)

would be a bit of a waste of your time. the only car thats had it done (on a ph1 ecu) was sold on, and the new owner significantly unimpressed with the way the car drove, so converted to standalone (and stuck the engine in a mk1).

then the £800 plus for new cambelt and aux belt kits, and actually fitting the engine. all in about 3 times as much as just getting the belts changed ;)

tighter than you think. ie, when you think it's about right, give it a little bit more.

driveshaft. Probably the drivers side, inner joint

yup, only 60k on the clock, every bit of history since new, and never had a cambelt. it's MINT too