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175Nm on the rear bearing. Just looks like the bearing has started to come apart, which is usually down to incorrect torque if they're not just old and at the end of their natural life
the solenoid needs 12v to one pin (ignition switched live), then the other pin connects to ECU pin 10 which is a controlled output earth switch. I wouldn't try to activate it until you've got the car on the dyno for mapping, as you say it will change quite a lot
need to make sure the claiper is moving and operating correctly. the caliper sliders on the rear are one big failing which is fixable, and the other issue which will mean caliper replacement is a faulty ratcheting mechanism on the handbrake (inside the caliper)
also, I'd be concerned that the...
Look for the hole in the bottom of the gearbox that the twisted mount fixes to. if there is one, then it will fit, you'll just have to remove the big black bracket on the box that the ph1 box has, and find the reenforcing bracket a ph2 uses
PMSL, powerstations figures are a joke, just looking at the ATW figures should make you laugh and walk away. Ktecs rollers read fine IMO (within 1bhp of SRR on loads of cars I've seen 1st hand at both places, including mine), they just have a crappy PC which keeps needing the software...
halfords 15w50 fully synth was made by comma, and the exact same stuff as comma motorsport 15w50. So it follows that it was probably just mobil 1 15w50 in a different bottle as they're the same company
did you have the old gold ones? they were all fixed free if you had the knocking issue, and the black ones don't have a problem as they had a better bearing used. Have to ask what suspension you're using too? Not H&R by any chance is it?