Search results

did you change all the blower motor etc under the scuttle? if not, and you just mean you changed the alternator setup, then you'll need the AC/CC one as that is what you have currently

I'd say it's a pretty good bet that the lambda sensors both need replacing and the cat is fine (unless it's actually broken up) If the cat really is broken (it does happen) then a sport cat is the sensible option. A genuine renault cat for a 182 is around £2k now

Andy's at K-Tec now. Bex car is a bit different from this which was 18 months ago!! Now Running the direct to head bodies

have you put the steering arm back onto the hub from the right way? The thread should go up through the hole in the knuckle. If you've turned it the other way and done down through the hole, then you've changed the angle and effectively shortened the steering arm. Worth checking. Only thing you...

i dont have one of those though, lol

it's LUSH. Probably my favourite mod

i would roll with you. Cool as frickety f**k

EFA

they do the same thing but on different years of car.

did it get any better when it warmed up? the stiff pedal and slipping clutch suggest something is physically stuck to me, maybe even frozen up

Release bearing is about £18 from memory Pointless to not replace the whole clutch while you're in there as it's a labour intensive job

Well the tool in the picture isn't a genuine one. Were the cam pulleys removed fully, and the dephaser cleaned out thoroughly?

jetwash under the wheelarches once a week. FAR more important that the visible bits

not entirely sure. Laine told me about it and showed me pictures. Rear end looks pretty stoved in

Mine froze up solid on monday. Had to squirt a load of de-icer into the keyhole and work the key back and forth until it freed off. Mind you, my door was frozen shut last night too, lol

well that area is where the pump is, so it could be the pump itself that's leaking (increasingly common) or it could be one of the hoses/unions that secure to it. Needs investigating to know what's going on fully

can see in the 2nd picture a pony one is being used to hold the cams only. This wont end well

not by a LOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOONG way

if it's a ph2, you CANNOT get an inner boot. Tried and failed. Renault ordered in every variant listed on their system and none were right new shaft is £201.08 + VAT

What I charge works out at way less than 200 in labour

that's nothing http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1998-FORD-MONDEO-LX-TD-ORANGE-BLACK-/230562826749?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item35ae9d89fd

Using my mk1 everyday also. It's too low, too stiff and with too low profile tyres to be forgiving in the snow, but it just gets on with it. Oh and the notion that lighter cars are worse in the snow is nonsense, light is MUCH better, less momentum to cause slides, and less weight holding you...

Gonna try to make it to one of these meets early in the new year. Cracking turnout

a LOT easier to just get a complete 1.6 Unfortunately the ECU's aren't cross compatible, so you can't flash a 1.6 map onto a 1.4 ECU. You need to get a full 1.6 loom and ECU, and have the immobilser code unlocked

normally a network error

DVLA get things like this wrong a lot my 200sx had "executive" on the log book, even though that was a '91 only model and i had a '93 Wouldn't worry

both 79.5mm bore. The difference is in the stroke which is 70mm on the J and 80.5 on the M

I know of a cup that locked up on a hill in Bristol, slid to the bottom until a curb stopped it, and bent the bottom arm. Thenn an hour later another car did the same and hit the abandoned cup

needs the loom checking to make sure the coils are all being powered/fired properly. Proper interpretation of live diagnostics data will give more info, fault codes are pretty useless most of the time

huh? just use genuine and dont think any more of it