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no, you have to cut a new, specific thread for the helicoil to be fitted to. not too complicated. I fitted 49 into a cylinder head a while back where the cam bearing cams and rocker cover had been overtightened and ruined all the threads

it's standard practice with aerospace engineering to helicoil any thread into aluminium becuase it's stronger

the bit of archliner that sticks out is covering the bumper to wing bolt. you can trim that bit of arch liner away, but be careful of what's behind as its sharper than plastic. Doesn't mean you can't do it, just be careful

cutting the thread larger for the next bolt size up is a bit of a last resort. Means you'd need to dril out the holes in the upper half too. Helicoil is simplest, and very strong when done right. If the bolts aren't tightened right down, then you're risking a vacuum leak which could give...

cutting the thread larger for the next bolt size up is a bit of a last resort. Means you'd need to dril out the holes in the upper half too. Helicoil is simplest, and very strong when done right. If the bolts aren't tightened right down, then you're risking a vacuum leak which could give you...

Re: Davesrealgood's Arctic Blue Cammed 182 no, i prefer it in bare carbon. It looks like a quality weave so no reason to cover it up

if it wont turn over, the first thing to look at is the starter motor. If it turns over but wont start, then a compression test to see if the engine is broken would be first, then if thats fine, try a new crank sensor

thats what i would do. Well, i wouldn't becuase rear strut braces are a complet waste of time and money, but you know what i mean ;)

Re: Davesrealgood's Arctic Blue Cammed 182 keep the bonnet bare IMO. Looks cool

longer bolts might help you in the short term. Helicoils would be a better solution for a proper fix

you'd struggle to get a cam 180 out ;) turn the bottom end over once and it will be in the right place again. 1 cam rotation to every 2 crank rotations

Time attack over here is all massive power stuff.

someone put up a wanted ad last night

looks badass!

vvt switches at roughly 1600 (dependant on manifold pressure also) it's there to give a nicer idle and smoother driving (in stop-go traffic for example)

F4R is a very high compression ratio for a standard engine, that means the knock threshold is lower. When knock is detected the ECU dials out ignition timing, and this reduces power output. On low octane fuel, you will get knock, and so you will run a reduced power from what's possible

got another shagged set removed from a car waiting to go back under warranty. about 2mm of side movement in the damper piston. Pretty much every set i've seen does the same. shocking for the money

Bit of an arse, most non specialist places seem to bend the slam panel out the way rather than just undo the bolts and remove it. the tensioner is just a 3/8 square drive, but it's awkward. I've made up my own tool for this which makes it a breeze

That is a main bearing not a big end. I would change it simply because it's apart

that should still work. It does on mine

cough

if it had happened in a very short period of time, and i had fitted a new kit myself, then i would be happy enough to just change the cambelt. Over a year since it was done is a bit pointless cutting a corner so a full cambelt kit, unfortunately for you. just an aux belt will surfice though

I would keep an eye on the oil level and make sure the leak doesn't get worse, then keep driving until the pulley becomes actually audible. Have you neglected oil changes?

that depends which paint you use. A benefit of the VHT paints is they normally specify no primer, just a light guide coat first. This is done in silver VHT

they dont get particularly hot that you'd need special paint.

EFA ;)

something like this would last me a minimum of 6 months with pretty regular use http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SILIRUB-HT-N-High-Temperature-N-Silicone-Sealant-/180608738080?pt=UK_Crafts_Cardmaking_Scrapbooking_Glue_Tape_EH&hash=item2a0d1ea320 You'd never get though the tube before it went off ;)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LOCTITE-SUPERFLEX-BLACK-SILICON-SEALANT-5940-WATERPROOF-/260694794945?pt=UK_Crafts_Cardmaking_Scrapbooking_Glue_Tape_EH&hash=item3cb29ee2c1 that will do what you need

that's b****cks you claim it back on the price you pay for the parts you muppet, meaning being non VAT reg'd makes parts cost more to start with. It all works out to be near enough square

WHAT the f**k is that Y-split