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really pretty easy, seen the tensioner done wrong dozens of times though. Worth doing the waterpump unless it's very low miles, and check behind the drive pulley on the pump for signs of previous leaks, which normally leave a yellowy brown scale
i wouldn't care if i was intending to keep it for a long time (as i do with most cars) but for resale it's pretty important to get a quick and easy sale for sensible money back. No paperwork is something a decent gaggler will hammer you for on price
HUH!!!???!?!?!?!
i'd be surprised if you couldn't at least half what you're paying, you need to call insurers that specialise in modified cars once you have modifications.
they dont have to be loud, especially if you retain the cat. I fitted a janspeed/k-tec 2.25 inch system with center silencer for a customer just before christmas, standard cat still fitted, and it's barely any louder than standard
they definitely make the most power once they've hit 100k, if the rest of the car has been looked after too, then you're onto a winner IMO. Buy on condition and not mileage
1. That is the aux belt, not the timing belt. Not nearly so bad. about a 10-15 minute job to fit a new one (dont just pop the old one on, it's come off for a reason so find out why)
2. kwik-fit....really?
different for different cam profiles, which is why you have to experiement. you can't just generalise like that, especially as he's using an unknown mix of parts
a stainless aftermarket catback system will be less money that just the back half of a renault mild steel system. Rememeber you also have to cut the original system in the right place, and use the correct joiner sleeve which is around £25 aswell
I would expect the vvt to need turning back off around the 6.5k mark actually, but you can experiment with this to see what yields the best results, move the switch point and see where it's at it's best, it will definitely need turning off before the limiter. Oh and while you're looking at the...
that's probably a pretty big limitation. Try out some octane booster/additives (and keep a note of the ratio you've used)
Need a bit more info to suggest what else to look at really. VVT on/off switch point as Fred mentioned needs setting to the right place, this is unlikely to be optimal at...
the trouble with listening for knock on the road is it's not always an indication of what spark timing you need to see peak output. What octane fuel are you using?
you can see injector duty cycle quite easily in gwv4. Right click on the fuel map, and a menu will pop up, look about 3/4 of the way down and you will see an option to view Raw, Duty cycle or pulse width. Select duty cycle then at the next popup select semisequential.
Looks like you're running...
Buy cheap, sell cheap. If you're keeping it for at least 3 years or so, then you'll be up on the deal, and it'll be of an age that it doesn't matter nearly as much when you come to sell