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live diagnostics data will tell you a real temp

going back to fuel supply, as it seemed to help before. What filters are their in your fuel circuit? just the one in the pump housing?

I'd go for a new Aux belt only on that. Anything else is wasting money. Under 2 hours should be pretty easy

completely agree, they got the 200 so much more "right" as far as engine control goes

never tried for a non genuine one. Renault should be able to sort you easy enough though

yes 100% needed. rubber de-grades, tensioners and idlers corrode and the grease in bearings dries out

well both air and water temperature sensors effect it, but mostly water

see my edit

does it sound a bit like a diesel? edit, just re-read that you replaceed dephaser so not that. possibly a sensor not adjusting the idle for cold start correctly, or very possibly the idle control valve

they're not that bad. depends how hot you get it under the bonnet. If you're in traffic for ages and get heat soak then give it some beans, you might notice it's a bit gutless. With enough airflow into the bay you'll be alright. If you're that bothered, make some heat-sheilding from the rad

I'm not that far away from you, I should be able to come over if you can cover my costs. Give me a call on the work number 07880 62 62 00

sort of If you look at a conventional torsion bar arrangement, they have ARBs and a torsion spring Basically the beam is the ARB

it's a delay in adding acceleration fueling. Deliberate strategy for Euro4 emmisions regulations

silly plug change interval IMO renault say 72k, but i'd do them at 36k or earlier worn out plugs put strain on the coil, so new plugs may sort it for a while, but the coil may have already started to break-down

water or oil in a sparkplug well would be my first port of call. After that, knackered sparkplugs, or a faulty coil

+eleventy!!!! I still can't believe people buy them

FLOL i might start driving to Brizzol if it's that cheap there. £45-£50 average

i've had the heads snap off before, just above the washer. Used a die grinder to flat the surface off so it could be drilled, then took hours of drilling :( I feel for you. Was one of them the front left one that's in a really awkward recess?

ok then, underneath, remove the undertray, big green plug on the rear of the box near the bottom

Generic is alright. Custom is better. simple really

just so happens i was under a 1.6 mk3 today and noticed how accessible the reverse switch was with the undertray removed. Which enigne do you have?

completely lost the will to live with it after that. tainted by scum

parked in a yard with a joyrider killed engine. thieving pikey gloucestershire f***s

I REALLY wish you'd been in mine mate. now THAT had a kick

WANTY!!!!

Had mine repaired a couple of months ago by a friend who works for Yamaha electronics. Apparently is's a combination of both heat and the uneven clamping thing so when it gets hot the soldering breaks or moves or something due to the board being under too much tension. He got X clamps for mine...

pipercross panel filter is a lot less restictive than the ITG which isn't great, and costs more. Definite gains from the pipercross. I'd say you want a k-tec(janspeed) stealth exhaust

depends on a lot of things. different size rollers, single roller or twin, run-down loss measurement or calculated percentage. Even ATW measurement comes out different between single and twin rollers

it's not mild steel!!!! i've fitted lots of them

fun? doing it because you can?