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The outer boot can be replaced. However it sounds like you have the VERY common problem of the gaiter retaining clip breaking (becuase renault are crap at making things that dont break) If the joint isn't worn, all you will need is a bit of a clean up to get any contamination out of the joint...

I've used diesel oils in my cars for years when they've been the closest grade to what i need. I'va always been of the opinion that at worst there's some agents in there to help slow down carbon build up

5 different shafts, variety of differences between them all, including length and center bearing (or lack of)

now imagine a van that comes to you, every week, with every tool you can imagine. How am i meant to resist????

Are you any closer to Birchdown? wouldn't recommend anyone else from that area. Pay your £10 and you'll be able to see the traders section and take your pick

170Nm on the rears

if you're doing the rear disks, you'll need a quite high range torque wrench. The hub nut must be torqued correctly for the longevity of the wheelbearings and it's a 30mm socket you'll need

the wheel can only go on the column in one place. It's king splined. To adjust it the track rods need adjusting to center the wheels, with the steering wheel held firmly in the right place. The alignment place i use has a jig for holding the wheel while adjustmants are made to stop this kind of...

I think Hutchies garage is in the northwest. Mickleton service station (?)

about 5 years ago, I bought myself a limited edition extreme green rollcab from the snap-on man. Well, about 3 years ago, I'd filled it WAY beyond capacity, so asked my dealer to find me a top box that matched. Challenge extended, and accepted Well last week, I called up said dealer...

I'm fairly sure the cup variant uses a slightly longer shaft, and the ABS ring is a different width. Been a long while since i've but them side by side though

that's b****cks for a start. Halfords oil is made by Comma. Comma Motorsport and Halfords Motorsport oils are exactly the same thing

there's a center bearing carrier which is clamped in so 2 extra bolts, but apart from that its the same job as the gt turbo, no roll-pins on mk2 clios though, the hole is there but they're not used

easy enough. Make sure you have a torque wrench that goes high enough for the hub nut. If you just gun that up you'll most likely do more damage to the wheel bearing

Probably Gaz (Clio-lord) he's not on here really. this car?

I wouldn't worry

that was good stuff at an excellent price

sounds a bit tight to me, but i tend to watch iplayer and 4od more than actual TV. I used to blitz my 3Gb limit when i only had a 3g dongle, and that was being careful

sounds entirely normal for that engine. If you really want to do a conversion, and not go for 2 litre, the 1.6 16v (k4m) is the better option

if you replace the track rod, which is the part that's worn out, then it wont fail dont tell me you went to renault for an MOT???

as above, you sure it's not just breather mayo?

FFS Dave, are you just being tight about the fuel? suck it up, that's hardly anything

the HD is a nice bit of kit, but too big IMO. Essentially an EVO, reworked for the uk. It's the same size screen as the HD2 which is just that bit too big to be comfortable. The single piece aluminium chassis is a superb feature though, one thing i wish the desire had

DS performance are approx eqivalent to mintex 1144. 2500 would be equiv to 1155 I run DS performance in my mk1 as it's a road only car and they're decent for a very good price

+eleventy

They're loud if you de-cat but very placid with the stock 182 cat in place

I'm far too pretty for that

what you really want is hubcentric spacers, and a long stud conversion. Do away with wheel bolts entirely

might help to know where they came from. I suspect they're Cat 420s so actually just standard profiles

if they're cat cams then you'll be able to tell (or I would) by removing one of the bungs from the end of the head.