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I'd get a stealth system whatever you decide on if you dont want a "drainpipe" out the back.
K-tec stealth is a decent option. I can supply and fit, and I'm local to you ;)
LOL, I'd forgotten how bad the dephaser noise was.
ARB looks better. Have to admit it concerned me as you drove out of the yard with it as it was before
:)
right, becoming less convinced it's the rad now tbh
I actually had a bit of an overheating issue my self for a few days before my car was mapped. I was using a little too much ignition r****d to hold the idle down so the cylinder temperatures were getting pretty high. now it's unlikely to be...
I had to change the rad on a 12. 8v mk1 a while ago that was doing pretty similar things. There was ZERO flow between the outlets.
If you thing what the insides of a rad is like, it's just a series of very small bore gallaries. Doesn't take a lot of silt/radweld or other crap to cause a blockage
it will never fall off. It can't, but you will find the car becoming more dificult to drive with some funny flat spots at light throttle/low revs sometimes
the pulleys do continue to deteriorate. basically if the pulley isn't sitting in the right place (which it's not if it's internals have gone slack) then your cam timing is just random between 2 points.
if they're available then CATCAMS will do them as they do K4M cams.
However, I'd suggest you'd be better off using their adjustable cam timing tool. The pulleys are free floating, an adjustable tool can be fixed with the cams where you want them
if they fucked it up through not knowing anything about the engine in the first place, they're not going to be able to fix it. The price you've paid is also nearly 3 times the cost of the job from a specialist.
You can't just adjust the tension on these belts either, the tension effects the timing
not on a ph2
it's been done on a ph1 (cable throttle)
IMO it's far from ideal as a MAP sensor is not the right primary load sensing for a setup which ruins no plenum. It will always be a very big compromise. The stock ECU doesn't have anything like the mapping resolution of pretty much any...
if you've seen the volvo setup, then you know how the cup setup works. It's just a cast aluminium version of the bracket that's a lot bigger and bolts to the front of the block rather than just the end/side
I'm going to try it in my mk1 bay in the next week or so when time allows (on F7R)
the tensioning is done by movement of the alternator. it's pulled up on a screw thread then clamped off with a bolt on the adjuster and the pivot
everything i do of a greater magnitude than a service becomes a labour of love for me. I've been known to sit with a bare block and various cleaning/scraping tools and sit for literally hours to remove every last bit of crap. On the flip side, I can go a year without washing the paintwork on a car
I salute you for that. I've done exactly the same on my bigest projects. I never rush to get stuff done so i can show it off, I build my cars for me in my own time. My 205 has been apart for longer than i care to think now, but I've been collecting the best parts I can find over a long time as...