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normally mount on the bumper iron, hung from underneath. Any more than 13 row is overkill. I'd more likely spec a 10 row. removing the undertray makes a noticable difference to oil temperature on track, I'd do that first.
If you still think you need a cooler then you must 100% use a...
i'd try cleaning out the current one again, and while you're there check the innsides of the boost pipes. I've seen a few become very clogged
I'd also suggest a diagnostics plug-in
like most things there's a lot of possibles. Could be one of the obvious list like leaking rocker cover or cam seal, but it could be something odd. Mine was smoking from the same place and it turned out to be a leaking inner CV boot spraying grease onto the manifold. Needs investigation to find...
at the very least, slacken the upper aux tensioner bolt and top alternator bolt, should allow it to slide forward enough to get the manifold in and out.
However, I personally prefer the complete disassembly method also. That way you know each and every bit is individually fitted correctly
Talk to Andy at K-tec. He will have fitted the SMT-6 way back before proper access was possible to the stock ECU. He'll be able to reverse the wiring very easily and do you a custom re-map of the stock ecu
No, I have faith in the standards ratings TBH. If an oil meets a standard then it's as good as any other of that same standard.
Some of the very top line oils excede the requirements (like royal purple) but they're not really necessary in road car most of the time
the inner joint on the track rod having play in it is VERY common. The dealer you're using either has a cheek to claim they dont know this, or is just lying.
My car has a worn inner end right NOW. Am i changing the rack??? Am i hell
i wouldn't unless it's a track only car that's trailered to events
I've built/been involved with cars before with perspex side windows, and yes it's a LOT lighter, but it's also noisy, cold and you lose the windows down function
All IMHO of course
I quite like the ride on H&R's for the road (not right for track IMO) but i really dont like what i've seen happen several times with the dampers, which is a LOT of lateral wear in the pistons causing knocking
THIS!!!!!
I've always been a big advocate of getting the damping right. Matching the correct damping to springs is a HUGE deal. I think the reason people find Apex springs so bad is that they're completely wrong for the standard dampers
I wouldn't say live with it!!! but i wouldn't panic that it's going to go boom. It needs changing as soon as you can reasonably do it, ie a few weeks wont hurt.
It's always a cambelt replacement job. TBH though a recent cambelt replcament from a known specialist will help a lot with the sale