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Good post. I'm rectifying one for a local garage next week as they realised they don't know the engine well enough, and don't have genuine locking tools

Not sport specific exactly, but there's extras for vvt, pulley locking tool that only Renault make, and isn't mentioned in autodata. If they went by autodata, they did it wrong

I'm not sure if i want to root mine just to be able to screengrab. Sure it has other benefits, but nothing i've really noticed i need. Anyone want to convince me?

it would with some other work like removal of AC, slam panel and a smaller rad. Spoke to Jenvey about the posibilty of gains with this plenum on NA, and Simon seemed enthusiastic about it. I'd probably just go for ITBs for the work involved though

Black 182 sound like the exhaust had fallen off? saw that a couple of weeks ago outside my sisters

I dont mean you personally, I mean get them to pull it apart, tell you what it needs, then order the right bits in

The compression is too good for it to be an engine weakness. I've told Matt what i believe it to be after doing some comparisons, have to see what he comes up with

why not get the box apart and see what it needs, then order the appropriate kit? kit 2 is the only one with bearings, so whether it's diff or layshaft bearings, neither of the others covers that

true enough. sounded like you'd paid already

interesting

sounds like something's not being done right for so little adjustment

I'd edit your mobile numbe rout if i were you Nick

Also, remember that you will definitely need to do a cambelt and aux belt kit on any different engine. To not do so would be insanity

bear in mind a garage has overheads that i don't, as I'm mobile, so prices are higher for a reason, but I can't see much justification for anything over £500 for labour

I'm freelance/self employed

I'm doing one this week for £300 labour

fitted, that's not a bad price if it includes a new cambelt and aux kits. For just an engine, that's about double what it's worth

engine is an engine, it's just held in with bolts. Makes no practicable difference by fitting a new one. You dont really have a choice anyway if your current one had gone pop. I might be able to help. I'll have a word with a friend with a workshop who's closer to you to see if it's do-able

crank pin is completely different, nothing to do with length, it's threaded and engages against a flat face rather than in a hole. Also the sprocket tool is completely different

Wrong good enough, and totally correct aren't quite the same though. Many will be done wrong, and run around like that for years with no-one ever knowing

if the pulleys have slipped, the cams would still turn. Sounds like bottom pulley has loosened off at a guess

more cost than that last time i looked. and if you've not got as far as ITBs even........Well i think you're doing things for the sake of it. As stan says, it's worth it on a pro race engine but not for what it sounds like you're doing

fancy paying me to fix anything? ;) LOL

skinter than skint, but might pop down to see parents and stop off at this on the way

Probably. Time and place pending of course 1. Tom 2. DannyR 3. sideways danny 4. 5.

dont need them, not used at all on the cup

better to plug in a laptop, do some data logging and see what's happening. Think target idle would be bang on 1k. Can be seen in the software, the ECU adjusts ignition timing to raise or lower rpm at idle

procedure isn't much different to a 172, but you have to use the specific screw in crank pin (same as K9K 1.5 dci) rather than just a push in pin like the F4R. Cam pulleys are locked with a plate with pins rather than locked sprocket engagement. 100% make sure you fit a new water pump

I mean if you had an engine with modified internals, like pistons, cams, cylinder head porting, then if would be worth the effort to get the gains. On standard compression etc, the standard position for injectors will work well enough as you're unlikely to use a greatly increased rev limit. If...