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insert in the end of the shrick exhaust cam for the timing tool location had moved. estimate by eye it had rotated some 30 degrees. Couldn't see it until we took the cam out, all the tools lined up perfectly.
there's a line cut into the trigger wheel part of the flywheel, as standard there's some coloured paint that highlights it. If you get the crank to TDC it should be really obvious. I need to take some pics of this stuff to make it easier to describe really
Wouldn't have run my car without warming it up properly first, doesn't inspire confidence that he didn't care :(, The dyno I visit most regularly (Surrey Rolling Road) you know about 15 minutes before your runs so you can drive the car about or even just let it idle for a bit.
Always check the mark on the flywheel, more accurate than the pin (Use the pin too anyway) Also never torque the bottom pulley just using the pin, you have to wedge the flywheel or it can move 5 degrees or more and risks bending the pin
sounds like the mechanic has seen the keyways in the crank and pulley, they aren't used. Worries me that he's seen them though as the bottom pulley has to be removed for this, if the timing wasn't out before I'll pretty much guarantee it is now :(
I've used Wurth studs on many turbo cars. If things rattle loose it's normally because of the way the exhaust moves in relation to the engine. Bracing is the key, exhaust paste on the threads works brilliantly as threadlock
lol, OK seen similar do OK and also seen them s**t themselves HARD. Normally ok if oil pressure is healthy. if those numbers are accurate (probably not really TBH) then it's quite a capable turbo and you shouldn't need to run a lot of boost. Bit of a suck it and see job really but atleast it was...