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Eh, there’s no need for that is there! There was no slurring of words last night. Not to the extent of last Friday anyway. Mchopter - see! I can type it, just not necessarily say it when I’m a good few jägers in 👀

I’d have to have a look at what the factory tolerance was for toe in on the rear, but I’d be definitely shimming it to be closer to the left rear.

Ok so flywheel is bolted to the crank, the clutch cover is bolted to the flywheel, so when you redline it with the clutch depressed, you will still be spinning the gearbox input shaft. That’s normal, but I wouldn’t be revving it like that at a standstill personally. Gears feeling notchy is...

I hate to say it mate, but it shouldn’t have any play

Nope. But it’s obviously now become internet folklore. The only N57’s I’ve seen have been police vehicles. And that’s because they spend the majority of their life sitting in a lay-by at idle, then when mr/mrs criminal come smoking past, they go from 0 to tasty and it didn’t do them any...

Trust me mate, the noise is very distinctive. Interestingly enough though, the fault codes that the M3/M4 display when the motor fails wouldn’t actually lead you to the valvetronic motor! Lol! Oh and @FatRS listen for a ticking noise from the top end of the engine at idle. It sounds like a...

They all get hit with a warranty marker now as well. So that mean if they have any drivetrain issues, their warranty is void. Lol

So I’ve seen more valvetronic motor failures than I’ve seen crank hub failure! Granted, no ones going to necessarily bring a modified M3/M4 into a main dealer, but I’ve never seen a standard spec crank hub failure. Remapped? Yep. And BMW see it in the data that’s transmitted back to them, so...

Not sure at the moment mate tbh. Yeah so without those nylon pads on the fingers, you’ll get movement at the gearstick and the selector hub will start machining the brass fork eventually. What diff are you replacing it with? Once he sees it, it should become more than obvious. Heating up the...

I’m looking at making some replacement forks in steel that will do away with the brass original with the nylon fingers. It will also be stronger. The crownwheel will press off, but only really needs doing if you’re fitting a LSD. Nope I’m afraid not. You can get a bolt in plate off eBay that...

Yeah they only hold 3.2ltrs (allegedly) but I’ve only ever managed to get 3ltrs in one! Lol - and even then it wasn’t a full ltr as it was a US qtr 😂😂

There’s a few calculators online that will give you a definitive answer. I used one when I geared my cup for the Nordschliefe. Swapped out the 5th gear for a meg 5th and went up from 15’s to 16’s. End result was 153/154 (on the limiter) iirc on the straight running down to Schwedenkreuz...

I’m afraid the item you require is no longer available from Renault. Anyone who has one in stock will only have old stock now.

I’ll make an enquiry mate.

Animal

If the service manual told you to line the clutch up with your c**k, or your finger, would you do it? My experience tells me that it creates problems as it collects clutch dust and stops things moving freely. All greases have different properties as well - not a one size fits all scenario.

That sounds like clutch drag then as it’s not allowing the shaft to slow down. That in turn hammers the synchros as they have more work to do in slowing the gears down. Did you put any grease on the input shaft splines at all? For possibly the first time ever, you’re better off going in dry...

£10 says they call people and ask for fishcake and chips and fishcake, love you, bye!

The only time I’ve experienced something like this was caused by the airgap being to large on one of the sensors. Fine when pushing on, but triggering the abs at slow speeds/light braking.

@banhama have you had it mapped on the bigger throttle body? If you haven’t I’d suggest you get it done. The engine is showing improvements in airflow as it’s potentially increasing the manifold pressure. It may well be drawing more air in, but unable to burn it.

I’ll drop you a pm mate. And the clutch bracket welding isn’t an issue. I can just replace the upper half of the casing when it’s apart. 👍🏻 172 or 182 btw?

Poor fucker.

Well the 172 inlet is different to the 182, somyou need the 172 inlet with the 736. I’d replace all bearing shells and order standard thickness thrust washers. Main bearings bolts should be replaced as they’re a stretch bolt, but just measure the thread pitch and bolt length - then replace them...

I misread that you’re not using the 182 head. You also don’t have the vvt issue was talking about above as you only have on/off to think about, so easy to map. I wouldn’t run the ph1 big port head though as you want gas exhaust speed. Ph1 head has far too large ports, but everyone thinks it’s...

All torque settings are as per a standard 172/182 motor as they’re all the same thing. Order a 197 upper gasket set and a 172 lower gasket set. That’ll cover the bases. But the issue you will come up against is the vvt. The system in the 197 works in a different way to the 172, so you’ll...

I used cable ties as I have no bungee cords, or friends. 😂😂

What you want it to be mate?

The best way I found to set the pms shifter up was as follows: Select reverse gear and have an assistant hold the shifter fully over to the left with pressure on. Undo the collar at the gearbox end and allow the shifter on the box to return to its natural position within the box, whilst still...

Well I was, but I’m not anymore mate. Martin and Allan are good friends of mine though 👍🏻

My advice is leave them alone. The exhaust cam journals wear more than the inlet and as a result, they then start to haemorrhage oil pressure due to the increased clearance.