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Lol! It ain't that heavy on fuel!! Flol! That's brilliant!! What an utter bell end!

I'll have a look and see if I'm working then. Yeah I only did the 15 min sessions last year, but no one was being an aggressive bell end. I'd do the 2hrs straight if I didn't need fuel. Lol

@Djw John when is it? I went last year and tempted to track the 200 again this year as the etiquette was actually good!

Well you can press the synchro rings on too much yes, but I strongly doubt that's your problem mate.

More a case of it's a Jc5 and one of its many 'quirks'. f**king things.

Well the one I had mate, had to be opened back up again. I found nothing wrong with it internally, put the lid back on and it selected all gears perfectly fine.

I've had one do this to me before. Take the end cover off and upload a pic. I need to be able to see the selector shafts.

Thrust angle is what's applied to steering geometry to counteract camber of the road etc, and keep the car in a straight line.

Main gains are midrange mate with a slight increase to top end. They just seem to breath that little bit easier if you get me?

Grp n cam timing is optimised for the original inlet really.

EFA.

This subject has been, and will continue to be done to death. The fact of the matter is that altering the scrub radius too much does have adverse effects on handling. A 10mm spacer on the fronts will be fine as it'll still be within an acceptable range.

Wasn't my place to share. The reality is that the pms manifold only really works well on highly tuned n/a engines. That's when it comes into its own.

Peak hp means f**k all if it doesn't drive right. I know how well grp n timing drives.

Take it from me, grp n and be happy. I sometimes wish I'd just left mine with the grp n timing and not gone all out like I did with the engine. However, I built my engine to prove a point.

It's part of it mate yeah. Biggest issue you'll come up against is the crank in the 736 is shite for high rpm work. Block needs checking for trueness of journals as well - line bore if necessary. Everything also needs to be balanced as well.

No point unless you're f**king the rs2 off and also carrying out the necessary to stop it spinning the centre main. To get n/a hp requires £'s. Lots of 'em.

I can't tell you if they will clatter the valves either as I don't think anyone's done it with grp n cam timing. Only option then is to go to 197/200 cams as well as they definitely don't touch.

It'll just move the power band up really. That's all that usually comes from upping the cr. May give some small hp and lbft increases as well though.

@Chambers_RS I've still got it...... want me to upload it?

Yeah they do. A mates just ordered one for his 140i and it was over £2k supplied but that includes the oil.

Yeah it is mate.

The diffs for these are well over £2k! Lol! They're also not that easy to swap over as you need a special tool to remove the propshaft.

Those exhausts are proper loud when the valves open, but they do sound good! Get the diff for it now. :wink:

Sorry I don't have them anymore, but @Typhoon was/is hosting them.

I've also ran ds2500's in the rear and noticed an improvement in the braking effort on my old cup.

Yeah 260 is possible and relatively easily tbf. You will need £££'s though. You'll need to rev it to way past 8k though, so we are talking 8500+. This will mean steel crank and rods obviously, along with a solid lifter top end. The block will start to twist at these rpm's/power outputs, so...

The larger hubs would be there for strength mate as the diesel would generate a lot more torque. The ones from a 2.2 will work just fine mate, as I bought a pair for myself moons ago. I can't remember where I found the information out from, but it was definitely on here. I *think* the main...

That one is a 1.8, so it won't have the cup racer hubs. The 2.2 is the one you want, but I can't remember the exact dimensions off the top of my head.