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The thing with Bilsteins is that they will last 2-3 times longer than the likes of Vmaxx etc, while out performing them in every condition. So long term Bilsteins are actually better value for money.
My 106 Rallye has had Bilstein dampers on it for 60k+ and they are still going strong.
Those discs arent that bad really, just quite rusty by the looks of it. Here in Jersey i would skim those discs and stick them back on with some new pads if it was on my daily, probably wouldnt if i lived in the UK and did motorway driving though.
I doubt that bonnet will polish back up, mine is exactly the same. The trouble with those K-tec bonnets is that they are cheaply made with polyester resin instead of epoxy resin, polyester resin is quite soft and doesnt polish up very well so the bonnets are lacquered from new. This is all fine...
When you put the car in reverse does your reverse light come on? Im sure i remember mine coming on but now it doesnt, been a long time since i last drove it though so I may just be imagining it.
Nice car, I use to have on of these and although its the slowest car i have owned it was deffinatly one of the most fun. Would deffinatly have another one.
Unless the clutch is slipping, grinding cause there is no friction material left or the release bearing has collapsed then it wont need changing. Get your moneys worth out of the one you have if there are no signs of failure.
Liking the car, their great fun Ive got a TCR car aswell. I bought some drive shafts for mine off Fergus trenholme i think, what sort of spares did yours come with?
I dont think this is Carlos's old car as his went to Guernsey and mine is in Jersey so two TCR cup racers in the channel islands...
Depends on the condition of the piece your prepping, whether it needs filling or not etc. If its something that just needs keying up for paint then i would use 800, remeber not to put the paint on too thick or it will chip badly.
Im not sure you will notice to much on interior parts but i wouldnt use less than 600 gritt to prep pannels or you will get horrible sanding marks in the paint once it has fully cured and sunk. I normally use 800 grit for pannels as your pretty much garunteed no sanding marks after you have painted.
Tbh their is nothing special about the sachs front dampers on a trophy, yes they are good but you can get much better suspension for less money. A set of KW v3's set up by a professional will s**t all over trophy sachs units.
Not true, William Hewland himselft says that using the clutch on up shifts will damage the dogs more than if you do a manul shift or use engine cut. Going down the box you can either blip the throtle before you change down (do not use the clutch) or dip the clutch enough to release the torque...
Shells are actually affected by mileage, high mileage shells normally flex allot or they develop stress cracks around load points on the shell when used hard. As i cheap daily or throw away track car it would be fine, but there is now way id throw good money at that shell to turn it into a...
There will only be small holes where the bincale use to be from the rivets and 1 hole about 12mm big where the plug for the display comes through. So you shouldnt need to cut or plastic weld anything really, Just a bit of fibreglass to fill the holes should do the job.
£2600 does sound very...
Cheers for the replies guys.
So 106.5kg its quite a heavy old lump, ive just bought a 106 Rallye and was thinking of putting the spare F4R i have in it. Thinking it might be a bit heavy now though.
More money that they know what to do with, that car is the equivalent of a over metro for some of the rich f*****s in the far east.
My mate went to Dubai and went for a 4x4 trip across the deserts and he said he saw all sort of high value cars just abandoned in the desert.