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I would happily punch him in the face for anyone if they wanted me to tbh.

If you don't start the engine then the flush will do no damage at all to the engine mate so don't panic. Realistically even if you did start it, it still won't do anything as by the sounds of it it's making no oil pressure! If that's the case how long did you run the engine for with the light...

Lol!

Have a read of his LinkedIn profile tony!! It's better than stand up comedy! Lol

'I am the type of person who achieves fulfillment by learning new skills, and applying them successfully. I take pride in finished projects and great personal interest in seeing things from start to finish.' Can you smell the bullshit?

Vw golf gti mate. Possibly others in the vag family as well.

Is that just a Yorkshire thing then? I thought the average was 6"? Flol!!! The vital word you missed out there was snow my boy!! I read it and thought, wtf?! Lol

If they aren't fucked I'd be tempted to re-ring them tbh mate. You'll know if it's damaged the ring lands/skirts when you pop them out. The ring lands normally fall off where they've cracked.

If you've got voltage at the motor but it's not operating, it's 100% the motor that's bolloxed mate. Have you got any way of measuring the resistance of the motor? I can compare it with mine then for you.

Yeah totally agree mate tbh.

These are the problems mate. I'd say 10k will get you a reliable and strong engine making 260+ IF you know where to go and what to buy.

Lol!!

Where's my engagement ring then?! Flol

Dan likes it hard in the rear gents. Lol

Yeah pretty much mate. The 60mm spacing hubs have a larger diameter wheel bearing as well for reference. Drive flange is the same though.

100% definite there's no benefit from the hubs in terms of widening the track mate. I once thought the same as you, but have since found out different. The wishbones off a cup have increased castor but nothing else. The difference in the 60mm spacing hubs is the steering arms mate. I've seen...

Put your spec list up and we will tell you! Lol!

Yeah I know mate, but I think your going to need 260+ for a fighting chance personally. Agree with the mechanical grip as well. A proper sorted lightweight 197 is the way forward imo. The chassis is more than good enough to compete with the Hondas

You need the front subframe. That's where the track width comes from, not the hubs. You can retain your original hubs so I'd leave them tbh.

Just my opinion Russ, but your gonna need a lot of horsepower and potentially a lot more suspension work to keep up with the Hondas/ex touring cars. I'm sure your all to aware of this though already mate. I'm all in favour of taking the fight to the big boys though! Let me know if I can be of...

Could've been mate yeah. Think they paid £350 or thereabouts in the end. @TarkMalbot was it you that dropped on them?

Without sounding like a prick, have a search on here mate. It was covered recently, but I can't for the life of me remember who posted about them! That's why I'm saying to search. Lol!

Cm composites do some similar ones I think mate.

Yes they'll fit, and yes a et35 will stick out approximately 10mm more than a et45. You may get some rubbing on the rear if you fit them along with spacers though.

That's still cheap!!

That's semi Grp n cam timing! Almost! Lol! Little bit more advance than the proper Grp n timing tool gives, but not much.

Oh dear mate. What's your thinking now then?

A big round circle with teeth on it mate. That's the bit that goes on to the diff. It will be currently fitted to your old diff.

You may need to roll/flare your rear arches mate with et30.

The crownwheel is also glued on with some special stuff when Quaife fit the crownwheel for you mate. They usually do that as part of the price? Or at least they do when I've supplied them.