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Look for somewhere to bolt it on to the block mate. That'll hold it steady then.

Needs a brace on the downpipe imo. Vibrations always travel to the furthest point, hence the nuts coming loose.

The rates of the gaz are quite low compared to the bilsteins then. I'd be saving up and opting for the billies personally.

Drain the oil out the box and stuff some rags in to the gearbox. Offer up the plate and mark the holes. Drill and tap the holes to the correct size. Remove the rag and pray nothing's gone inside the box from drilling and tapping. Refit driveshaft, refill with oil. Job done. You could always...

I personally would say the bilsteins are in a different league compared to the gaz stuff. Their only downside is that they're not damping adjustable. What spring rates are your gaz currently running on?

This has made me smile. I've had a w**k weekend and this has been the one of the only uplifting things I've read. Nice work mate

They're handed so you need to make sure you fit them in the correct corresponding positions mate. If your not sure put a piston in the block to see the positioning. Other than that knock them in dry with no loctite using a drift. Make sure you don't knock them in further than they need to be...

Yes really mate.

When do you anticipate completion then mate? Looks a tidy little project you've got yourself.

Good cars mate.

Is it the one you mentioned to me via text mate?

A 200 or 250 amp mega fuse is what you want mate. If you fit one that's too small, it'll pop when your turning the engine over.

I know who it is that builds them as well. Definitely worth looking at.

If your on a tight budget and your gaz took 3 years to leak I'd just get them refurbed mate personally. If you liked the way it drove on them as well, you at least know what your getting.

Steve is one of the guys that I turn to for advice or to run ideas/thoughts past, and not just car or engineering stuff. I've known him for a LOT of years and his advice and help through the years has been invaluable due to his vast experience. He's a good close friend of mine. Background...

That welding is beautiful! Very impressive for mig.

Engine built by Steve I hear? Good strong reliable engine on its way then fella. :wink:

12-13 seconds faster than me in my cup on 16" road tyres, no roll centre kit and kw v2's as a reference point for others.

All my opinion! For : sharpens up the steering from having the solid top mounts. Against : possibly induces an element of road noise/harshness into the car.

Look on the throttle body and you'll see a round black thing. It's usually that making this sort of noise.

I do. That's an offer Mr Hunter.

Yeah that's the one mate. I did the same thing.

Gutted for you mate. Fingers crossed that you do decide to get it rebuilt and you manage to get some use/enjoyment from it.

I set toe to around 10-15 minutes toe out up front.

I'll try and get you some pictures mate.

That's the only thing holding the column to the rack mate.

it's only going to be a variable resistor and possibly a circuit board mate I imagine. Nothing overly technical.

@Ph1 Tom will be able to tell you that mate as he fitted one in his car. @TarkMalbot

I'd say it's just coincedence tbh mate. Having the standard small bush in the front of the dogbone will actually help reduce some of the vibration in car. I used to run mine like that without issue on my road cup. Regards jumping out of reverse, I wouldn't be worrying. If it starts jumping out...

Just make sure you get the right one mate as some are slightly more turns lock to lock. I only kept my hpas rack as it made sense to leave everything there in case the Epas was s**t! Myself and James were some of, if not the first people to do the epas conversion.