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Go check your sills smart arse! Lol

Have a look at the bolt holes on your shock absorbers mate. Measure the distance between the bolt hole and the edge of the flange. Check that they're both the same each side. It seems to be a bit hit and miss with new dampers as to whether the hub mounting holes are drilled to suit cups or ff...

Gen90 for ease of fitment mate. Allows you to retain your original loom but has all the functionality of any of the other ecu's out there.

Mainly the s**t ph1's I imagine mate. Lol! Come on boys! Take the bait!

Yeah tin ones! Lol

That's because it's a ph2! Lol!:smilingimp:

What's your email address buddy? Got the manual.

Your welcome to try mine mate. No problem at all.

With sticky tyres on my cup and full epas assistance I'd say you actually get less assistance than the hydraulic pas supplies. That's with a looped rack though. Maybe different if using the epas rack. Everyone has different expectations of what should feel right to them. Take brakes for...

Epas means you fit a controller that allows you to alter the level of assistance you get mate.

Did you get in touch with BIGASH about his alcons mate? They're potentially your only option tbh.

Upload a video if you can mate. Make it easier to try and pinpoint the problem.

In terms of the power output that your engines are making there's no real advantage that I can see from either setup tbh mate. The return line system just makes it easier to install a swirl pot if and when the time comes. The return line system comes into its own on fuel hungry boost buses as it...

Yeah 044's are awesome bits of kit, I'll agree wholeheartedly with you on that one.

Fair enough mate. Just going off my own personal experience. The 044 is also overkill in this install though tbh.

Yep so was this mate. Hi flow in tank pump to the swirl pot and originally a -6 feed to the 044. -10 in this picture. Because it used to starve the pump.

@Mini182 not wishing to piss on your chips, but the -6 feed from your swirl pot to the 044 ain't big enough. You need a -10 feed in to it as they flow more fuel than the -6 can supply. It'll starve the pump otherwise. Been there done that.

Your looking at about £1030 mate all in. Like I say - pricey. What info you after for the jc5 mate? In stripping down terms they're a bit of a t**t tbh! Splitting the casings to get access to the diff/gears is awkward, oh and they wear the coupling teeth on the gear rather than the synchro itself!

@nath&alex - Here's one I made earlier. Lol! Didn't know I'd got one on my phone. See the 2 half moons? They're the ball bearings I'm on about. Then it's just a bit of loctite and a press = job done.

What areas in particular mate? Quaife or the torsen? I've no experience of the torsen diffs at all, but the quaifes require the crownwheel/diff machining to effectively lock the crownwheel to each other. It's a half and half job, so 50% of the ball bearing is in the crownwheel and the other 50...

Just to clarify my above statement regards the cheaper materials, I'm not meaning to a lesser spec, I'm meaning in terms of material cost to purchase. It's a large billet that's needed to manufacture a jc5 diff.

Horses for courses mate. I'd remove the return system off your ph1 though!!

Cheaper materials and cheaper machining costs. Potentially. But it says it comes with a lifetime warranty.

Did you buy the 428's with the grooves/damage to the lobes?? They're fucked imo.

Yeah definitely is. It all comes down to how it performs. I can get grippers and quaifes at half right prices, but even I'd be tempted!

Nah more like £60-£70 for the machining. That's about what Quaife charge

Only the crownwheel if they mount it the same way as Quaife diffs are. It's basically 4 ball bearings and a bit of loctite on Quaifes for the jc5.

Cheap @€750 too!

Stiffer springs mate. You can buy my ast's when I split the cup. Lol! You'll need 450lb up front minimum.

To do that kind of job you need to run the cables in some corrugated cable protector type stuff mate. Then it's just a case of extending each and every single wire that won't go the route you want it to go. Quite a simple straightforward job to do tbh unless you've got any shielded wires running...