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Enlighten me then mate. Which bit is, in your opinion 'crap'?

Yeah if the valve is closed as in 'up' you will get full effort to the rear brakes. The arm should have a spring that attaches to the it and the body/chassis. Mines actually seized in the up position and combined with ds2500's it stops incredibly well! Lol It doesn't cause any lock ups in...

Your maths is correct Fred! It changes a small amount dependant on wheel size though.

I've got a vecta file with the 172 cup badges on so I can get them made as stickers. Just got to take it to the local sign shop and get them done.

If you want some really good turn in, you want toe out on the rear as well. It WILL swap ends stupidly quick if your not ready for it though so you have been warned! You'll find with toe out on the front the steering feels very twitchy as well, so don't be put off by it that's just how it is.

Yeah most anti roll bars are spring steel, but it's a bit of a pita to get them made. Cds tube will work fine. I've used it in another rear beam setup before with good effect

I'll be putting the wideband on it anyway so we shall see I suppose. I'm not entirely sure they can be flashed with a Rs tuner either.

Grinder, hammer (large variety) and a drift will remove the arb inside the rear beam mate. After a bit of abuse of course. Then it's just a case of opening the hole up to accept some larger diameter cds tube, bit of welding to hold it in place and job done. It's all a bit committed though! Lol

Is that with the 197 cams set on standard timing or inlet advanced chip? Reason I ask is I'm gonna throw a set in on the full grp n timing settings and use the genuine grp n ecu from Renault seeing as I've already got it.

No you don't need them. I have no inner skin and I just bonded the door handles into the door trim.

In that case drop it about 25mm from standard ride height, but no more. It will be a good compromise between keeping travel and not getting the roll centres in a mess. What suspension/coilovers are you running out of interest?

What suspension are you using? If it's cup racer stuff you'll be able to go pretty low before you hit any issues, but if it's on normal 1*2 hubs you'll run into roll centre issues pretty fast!

I agree with what this man says! Mine were fitted professionally by a window fitter! Yes it costs, but they don't come loose or fall out.

If you look down the end of them you can tell if they've gone off mate.

Check your seatbelt pre-tensioners mate. If they have gone off the airbag light will stay on. I've got a pair of fronts if you need them as well. Pm me if your interested.

That's interesting, as I was told it will put the eml light on if it's disconnected. If it doesn't I'll be doing that and binning the remains of it off! (canister is gone - just solenoid and a few pipes left)

It's the carbon canister like Fred has suggested I'd imagine. Mine does it as well! The solenoid on the canister clicks and sounds like a tappet. The carbon canister is there to vent the fuel tank and direct the vapours back into the inlet manifold to be burnt in the engine when the cylinders...

Recaro furious/pole position would be my choice. Yes it's a fixed bucket seat, but they offer so much comfort for a bucket it's ridiculous! They're not all that high on the sides either so still ideal for daily driver duties. I have some in my car and the even on a journey to the nurburgring...

This is the very reason why the product will be tested rigorously. We will not sell anything that isn't up to the job. It will also be made from the correct grade of material rest assured. The kit for the track rods will also be available as a option.

This is one of the options that we will have available. The problem with that type of design is you are limited to how far you can go before you run the risk of breakage. Even if you get them heat treated they can break.

Don't worry Russ this was mentioned by James and has been taken into consideration. We have a option that will work for you!

Myself and BIGASH have a roll centre corrector kit that has been used on my car and will be used on his car. It will be vigorously tested on road and track by us both before it's available as a kit, but initial impressions just from using it on my car were very very good. It is designed to work...

The corner your referring to is Kallenhard mate! When I saw the car come down into it, I thought, this will be close!! Unfortunately it was a tad too close!! Yeah I think I spoke to you, but it was when you were waiting for recovery. I think you were taking the piss out of the driver as well...

No worries, that's what the forums all about isn't it. Also, if you know someone that's extremely capable with a tig welder, you can weld up a 172 inlet port and then effectively 'raise it' so it matches the 197 inlet ports...........granted though, it's a hell of a lot of work to do it!! Not...

You need to drill and tap the 197 head for the cambelt idler roller as well. The 197 doesn't have this.

I was at the very corner this car crashed at and saw the whole thing!! Small world eh!!

Take your dash top off and check the earth connections. If ones loose it can cause these sorts of faults.

Any of the books that demon tweeks sell would give you the general insight into what you want to know. Unfortunately they are just that though, a generalisation into suspension design, geometry, etc etc. It's a shame there's nothing out there that concentrates on fwd really as that's what the...

Will do Tony! I would've contacted you anyway, so more than happy for you to have a kit when the testing is done!

Nope this one is nothing to do with me. I have already got a kit ready to go to solve the roll centre issues. Before I even consider marketing it, I want it proven with facts and figures to back it up. This will be done by James (BigAsh) and it will be a joint venture that we will then offer out...