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I don't know what book you've read that from mate, but mine doesn't say anything like that. They are adjustable on the car. The fronts have a allen key adjuster on the top of the damper and the rears are the same as koni top adjustables (which is what they are anyway)
No mate you don't have to cut the metal innards of the door to fit them. Mine has no innards as I run with plastic windows, so all the winder mech is gone. Plus it free's up weight.
The door handles on mine are bonded in place as well.
If you run without the door handle spacers you can...
My 172 cup as i bought it:
DSC01171 by NorthloopCup, on Flickr
DSC01173 by NorthloopCup, on Flickr
It had been in a ditch at some point due to a knackered rear shock absorber i suspect. Got it repaired and vic checked, and this is how it stands now. These pictures are minus the 197 cup...
My astra Gsi turbo. Still got it now although its currently sorn. It features a properly built forged C20let with pectel management, custom inlet and exhaust manifolds, a nice big turbo running at 2bar and the powers fed through a quaife straight cut box with atb diff. Custom fuel tank in the...
Could be a loose earth connection on the dash bar. Take the dash top off and give them a wiggle. I've seen a loose one of them do some very weird and wonderful things!
The door cards need the handle spacers if your retaining the steel of the door innards. My doors have had all that removed in a bid to save as much weight as possible.
The spacers come up for sale on here so it is do-able without cutting the guts out the doors.
Yeah I'll make up sets for...
Yeah got some pics somewhere. They're basically just a flat sheet that you attach to the door with panel fasteners or like I did, use riv-nuts and domed allen head screws.
They fit and look fine as far as I'm concerned and trust me, I am very particular about how things should look. They are...
I wished I'd bought a dc5 instead of the cup even more now after watching that. The live mapping/in-gear boost setting brings back memories of when my other car was mapped on the a12 in and out of london! Lol!
So if the hubs on a 172 cup are the same as a normal 172 and non cup packed 182, why does the 172 have slightly longer steering arms compared to a normal 172? Also, how does the different track width come about on a 172 cup then? The offset on the turinis does part of it, but not all of it...
Javelin usually do opl days at cadwell for for around £120, and they currently have some on there at £99 book early price. I'd be tempted to come up with you if you go. Absolutely love cadwell!
They probably specify different spring rates because the dampers are valved differently. Your probably better off on standard dampers and eibachs if the roads are that bad.
You'll do well to get diagrams mate. When I paired my loom down I just followed plugs back from the items I no longer needed and removed them.
Are you keeping the uch?? If your running a aftermarket ecu I'd sack it all off tbh. I've been involved with James's wiring (BIGASH) and life without...
Jenvey offer nothing for the 197. You'd have to pay to have a base manifold made up as a one off. Loadsa money!!
I'll have to look at getting my 197 inlet on the flow bench and see what the losses are. I'd imagine it being in the same place as on the 1*2 though.
Here you go:
Untitled by NorthloopCup, on Flickr
Untitled by NorthloopCup, on Flickr
Untitled by NorthloopCup, on Flickr
Untitled by NorthloopCup, on Flickr
Untitled by NorthloopCup, on Flickr
Apologies for the poor quality of the images. Hopefully it'll help you out.
Yeah pretty much mate. Iirc you have to swap some pins around in the ecu plug dependant on which variant of Clio it's going in (as in, ph1/ ph2) but that's a piece of piss tbh.
I do agree with chip though about the omex being a reliable ecu. A lot of it comes down to your budget and how...
Not sure of the cost of omex and loom mate. I worked mine out against using a ec2 from tdf vs the gen90 and I think there was about £50 either way in it.