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Yes, F4R engines don’t spin bearings ( at least if they do it’s rare) The engine builders I spoke to before building my race engine all said they would file off the tangs. It’s not worth the expense of machining the block to take them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're right there Sam. Reliability is your friend so you can concentrate on the important stuff.

Me neither. Had a Cartek on my 350Z and never had a problem. Armtech are supposed to be good too but I've never had one.

Yes, Have to have one for racing regs. Mine is a manual one which was on the car when I bought it although I would recommend the Cartek electronic ones. By far the best and simple to wire in...

Thanks, this might be the answer. I'll update soon.

I must admit I though all phase ones had a return line and regulator on the fuel rail. That being the case you will need a FPR because your in tank pump won't have one. If you are running a non return system then you should have the regulator in the pump but you will just be limited to the 3bar...

So, with the car on the ground the wheels start to move as soon as you start to move the steering wheel?

Yes, this is exactly what I have in mind. I'm just trying to find a cable that has the right end on it that I can use in one piece. Otherwise I will have to join 2 like you suggest. (It's just more to go wrong in the heat of a driver change!)

Ilya, have you checked there's no slack in the DCi rack? My Epas has been absolutely spot on. No problem returning to centre. But I'm running with a looped HPAS rack at the moment. Still haven't fitted my DCi rack.

That's a nice solution. But you need something to clamp the outer sleeve to don't you? So the inner cable can slide? My problem is I now have nothing to fix to and I'm not replacing my door cards now after discovering they weigh over 1kg each despite being carbon fibre! I've been trawling...

It's a lot of work sorting the car after a roll isn't it. I was on holiday for Thruxton, so looking forward to getting back out. Will hopefully be at Mallory too. Another great circuit, well suited to the Clios.

Awesome mate. Stiffer sidewall than the R888Rs and the grip is amazing. After one race and half a day testing they look like the wear is good on them too.

How's it going Sam? Are you going to be ready for Donny?

Still weighs around 930kg at the moment. Rollcage and fire extinguisher cancel out a passenger seat and then I've also recently had to add a swirl pot too. If I eventually go all fibreglass then I'll be as light as the 2 Clios that are faster than me in the series I race in. Fibreglass doors...

Not quite as much as I hoped to be honest. Electric ones weigh 770g, manual ones 650g

Made some progress with the doors today. A couple of years ago I had cut a fair bit of metal out of the doors but decided to see how far I could go to get them as light as possible without losing too much rigidity. The standard doors with glass and trims removed weigh 19.8kg. I had already got...

Depends what your plans are for the engine. Mine is a race engine so has race bearings and it’s been solid since I built it but you’ll probably get a different opinion from everyone you ask. Nick at Pure knows his stuff though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Although I was advised to use King bearings rather than ACL Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, I have them ground off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Depends what set up on the engine you're running. I'm on ITBs so I can control fuel pressure with the return line as I have a high pressure pump on my swirl pot assembly. If you're using the standard intake and Throttle body you'll either have a regulator on the fuel rail (early 172 set up) or...