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Yeah, mine is only 850kg so I’d struggle to get into class B even with a standard engine and definitely not with my race engine at 230bhp. Unless I ballast it up. We’ve got a calendar meeting in the next few weeks to decide what to do next year but with a couple of 2 hour races on the calendar...
Is that the BRSCC production cup? My car wouldn't qualify as it's a bit too light and modified but Rob's might. That was a new series last year wasn't it? How were the grids?
I think I rember seeing your clio in a photo somewhere and noticed you ran the same number! Not sure what the newcar will look like yet but Rob is keen to continue the black theme even though the new shell is currently grey.
So after a couple of testing sessions over the winter Rob and I embarked on a season of campaigning Darth Vader. Starting at Donington with the CSCC Tin Tops in March. Quali was not ideal with the throttle body failing soon after I went out to start my stint which left us starting 3rd in class...
Only 3 and a half years since I updated this! 😂
Where to start?
Following on from that last post, 2021 came to an abrupt pause at the next meeting at Donington when the engine dismantled itself 5 laps in and running in 2nd place.
After a rebuild we made it to Silverstone in October to round...
These were Mark Fish's own design solid top mounts. He sold a few some years back. I have a set on my race car that have been on there since I bought it in 2013 and they're still good. Over engineered and excellent quality!
If it’s on top at that end it will almost certainly be the solenoid seal. Easy job and about £5 on eBay.
Definitely try that first because the alternative is a much bigger job!
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You should be ok with 12.1 CR as long as it’s mapped properly, you use good quality rod and main bearings and ARP bolts.
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Yes, I just needed one as light as possible. The trophy one still needs a light fitting to it. Probably not much difference to be honest though
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Good luck with this. I should imagine the Clio will be quite a bit lighter than the Pug.
Unfortunately the jumping out of gear is almost certainly box related rather than mount.
If you have the budget look to getting a diff fitted during the rebuild. That will be money we’ll spent.
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Aux belt is nothing to do with timing. That’s the cam belt. So you can easily remove or replace the aux belt. An easy job you can do at home.
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No, not really. If you have time you could drop them in to a jar of oil over night to let them fill with oil so when you start the engine for the first time they are oiled straight away but it’s not essential.
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There is no correct order other than keeping wear even in your particular engine by replacing them in the exact same slot.
You should be fine just putting them back in any order unless they are all noticeably different due to wear in which case you’d be well advised to renew them.
Good luck...
Have you got both pulleys loosened off? Make sure you can move them on the ends of the cams then once the tool is in tighten them both up with out them spinning. It’s tricky and may take 2 or 3 attempts but you should get there.
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Be good to see some pictures!
Very unlikely you’ll be too loud for track days but the 182 manifold is a good upgrade and you should find the cat will be a direct bolt on to your existing system.
Good luck!
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Brands Hatch 22nd May
Well, last weekend kind of started on Thursday last week when @Rob Quantrell and I headed down to Brands to set up our gazebo for the weekend. The idea being that we could rock up nice and relaxed on saturday morning and just unload the cars straight in without the faff of...
Just buy something like this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124690643947?hash=item1d08243beb:g:PLMAAOSwic5fA~eY
There are probably 3 that you'll find you will ever use but once you have the hang of using them depinning a plug is easy.