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your car looks pretty low! I'm curious how much really cause I had some issues with mine the first time I got the coilies on it. It used to bottom out quite often so now it's like this:
Was it the metal bumper bracket (where the corner of the bumper attaches) or the metal that's part of the chassis located at arround 10 o'clock as you are viewing the wheel from the side?
Mine rubs on the metal piece
plus the 16mm spacers.. how does it feel? I have a thread on adding spacers or not and the way that it affects the geometry. I'm tempted to fit 10mm on the front as the tyre shoulder is quite close to the coilover adjuster rings due to increased camber but some say this will alter the steering...
yeah but I have the std bushes on the lower arms so nothing to correct there like you did. Fitting spacers would make it worse because while turned the wheel will have a slightly left-forward position and could rub even harder.
I've seen that you have got rid of the lower part of the arch...
just do a general check of the suspension. if you want some upgrades then it's a good time to change bushes(powerflex maybe) and new top mounts (if required) I'm a fan of the solid type ones, adjustable if possible :)
Ball joints, track rod ends are to be checked also.
Also check the geometry...
One year later lol.. As above, have you sorted it mate?
I have the EXACT same problem with mine, it's lowered about the same as yours but I have the original wishbone bushes and it still rubs in the exact spot!. It looks quite like yours with the wheel moved towards the front of the car. I...
the gaz golds are decent, I'd say you keep them. The refurb is quite cheap on them also. Maybe gaz will supply you some shorter bump stops and together with harder springs you won't be bottoming out anymore. Oh and get some coilover covers to protect them
I made mine at a local guy who makes bags, wallets and stuff. He had a material that looked like waterproof and quite sturdy so I'm pleased with the result :)
This happened to many people, with nasty aftermath on some ocassions, I doubt there were issues every time, as far as I know it's about the heating cycles that are making the bolts coming loose. For some reason (can't really explain) the stud-nut assembly is less likely to give up in the same...
plus side is they won't come loose. I fitted studs to mine after being on a 20 min session and the bolts comming loose so much as I could get them undone by hand! pretty scary stuff as they were torqued just a day before!
Done another track day this weekend and checked the studs after and they...
Hi rob!
I had this issue with mine and long story short I had to shorten the bump stops in order to gain some travel.
I have the GHA kit but I am pretty sure that the shock bodies are the same lenght, I also have the k-tec solid mounts which may be about the same stack height as yours.
here's...
Interesting that the 172 cup has ET38 wheels while the 182 cup/cup pack has ET45, and despite this the official figures don't spec different track width between them (as I can remember)
Very interesting thoughts here :)
I am thinking of going like this:
FIrst of all I will assume that the std geometry is quite good, hell, that's why we love these cars right? :)
And based on the things I know about the std suspension setup(ride height, toe, camber, caster etc) I will try to...
remove the springs and allow for some play when moving the pads up and down in the caliper - about 1mm of play I'd say (that may require some more filing). I did this on mine and never had any issues
Cheers!
ok but how much is too much then? I would think that 20-25mm of spacers is quite a lot, but I never intend on going that far, maybe just 10 or 15-16mm maximum on the front
I already read that article ;) Thanks anyway!
On some cars 5mm of extra positive scrub can be nasty, maybe others cope or...