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Since I'm having some camber bolts coming soon I tried to come up with somethin' to measure the camber, after realizing that a digital camber gauge was out of my reach - cheaper ones that I've found couldn't get them ordered to my country so my attempt went like this: drawn the item in acad...

I have them and I'm happy to say that all the knocking went away after fitment. nicer to give it the beans also :D Recently a friend drove my car and he said it definitely feels more responsive if not even a little quicker than his- he's got a 172 I managed to keep up very closely with another...

I don't have bodies but here's my point: If the sound they make (which is awesome) won't get you mad over time then I don't see why they would be different to a normal car day to day. It's not like fitting a sadev g-box which is un-driveable around town. The engine will remain NA, smooth power...

mark fish are the best quality but as I remember they are also fixed. And expensive :D about 300

was playing in acad and decided to make a drawing explaining how these mounts are workin' if others will want to know :) correct me if wrong though! pic shows driver's side mount

the combo of camber bolts plus ast mounts should give you about 3 degrees no problem

yes the top rotates, you can adjust camber+caster

no the k-tec ones are fixed :( you have coilies and probably built in camber adjustment, you can play with the caster using the AST ones, should be pretty cool to try different settings on a track day danny probably recommended you should move to other coilies (other brand) since GAZ ones aren't...

ITB's all the way ;)

did you noticed any difference back when you had the inlets matched? i guess you have the rs stamped ones, people say that you won't feel much matching these, that's why I'm asking

AST ones. nice to see you can play with the camber/caster settings. wish I had them :( k-tec not bad, good quality it seems, I'm running them for a year now, but wish they had some adjustment

"crackin" pads people say.. :D

try to identify where exactly is knocking and then go from there. shame you couldn't live with the solid mounts, I like the fact mine got me rid of the knock and I'm ok with the vibrations

more than a year with the milltek now and it's fine. they had problems with the welds in the past, I asked them about this and there was a bad batch. anyway, the guys who experienced problems got their parts replaced under warranty, so customer service is spot on. it sounds the way you want to...

Just to answer the thread I think the part no is 81260. 99,9% :D

would take them bud but you're about 3000 km away :)

original hole is left in place, and re-drilled one 6 mm further, as far as I remember k-tec did this with their cup pack coilovers. some maths involved when doing this because you can mess the camber if drilling in the wrong place

good choice these tyres. had them for couple of months before damaged one of them and had to run exalto's again. they certainly felt better in the dry. stiffer sidewall as well, really noticeable when off the rim

heard a story that the rs driveshafts are a little bit too long, and add stress on them while on full lock or when excessive neg camber is applied. if that's the case then longer joints should do the trick? I'm on solid top mounts but the full lock knocking is still there on occasions. or is it...

so it looks like they're the same for the entire clio range?

I'm after these bolts but wanted to know their part no. As I know so far the part no is 5.81260k Some traders sell them as "clio Mk2 camber bolts", even if std bolts are different in RS models. these bolts I know for sure that are smaller in diameter than the std ones, but would they fit the...

mine felt chocked when I did this couple of times. sounds nice but I wouldn't keep it that way

at that money you can get an pipercorss viper or a BMC CDA, and they are enclosed (better for power) and also sound nice.

what part number are the megane injectors? tomorrow felix is gonna remove one and we'll compare the codes

no problem ;)

8400rpm?? you sure?

I did it this way and it worked fine. others welded all around the sleeve. I think care is needed when doing so, i'm not sure about the polyurethane's resistance to heat. mind you that I had the sleeves spot welded on both sides so it should work just fine

I also thought that one of the front abs rings are damaged because i'm getting "pedal farts" at low speeds. but looked at the ring a few days ago and it looks good. abs sensor then? any ideas? getting them of is like fred said

as many said, ds 2500/brembo HC discs combo. brake lines also if you want a top job

20-30 mm will be just right, it will be noticeable and still have a good ground clearance for those speedbumps as above, get a new or used set of eibach sportlines, they're the best springs for the 1*2's