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this is what happens if you don't weld: although i'm sure there are people who didn't and they're fine but do it just to be sure

yeh, you will get this:

correct. you have to weld the lower arm outer sleeves to the arms: or else they will come off and rub on the subframe mounting brackets. been there, done that..

they do. you'll probably never have to change them :D don't listen to "they'll make the ride harsher" crap, I didn't feel anything harsh with mine I also had the lower arm bushes at one time, nothing harsh there as well

23 for sure. 23outer/25 inner are for the 182, I know because I have the complete set :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZU5PQMqd-w&p=5C086D4A421749E4&playnext=1&index=31 182 with yozza^

I like the BTB for it's tailpipes and built quality. janspeed are pretty good it seems. my milltek hasn't cracked so far so I must have nailed a good batch :D. it looks good too but yeah go for the yozza firstly

take a picture of it when not operating. I think it's bolted in incorrectly or there's some problem with the wiper linkage.

not there yet

definitely don't go for the renault one! if you have the cash get the k-tec carbon one or as above, the skoda thing

22mm

hard to find megane blocks around here (if not impossible) and they must be expensive also (combined with the gearbox). You can get them on e-bay I suppose but the price would be a problem. the VW gearbox option which Scoff adopted should be cheaper

hey hey we're drifting! car definitely is between the 380-400+ area, doesn't matter that much! it needs a gearbox-fact! shall we move the conversation in that area? :D

yep

the power output came about the same on three dynos, so it should be near the actual

the car has Haltech stand alone, and over 4 bar of fuel rail pressure, the fuel regulator is set to open at 4 bar. if additional pressure comes through the vacuum hose from the turbo boost the regulator opens above 4 bar, thus holding above 4 bar pressure in the injectors=more fuel

thanks for the reply, pm sent to Scoff now :) here's a recent graph that came out:

We have here a turbo 172, problem is the original gearbox needs an upgrade or find another one capable of taking 400+bhp and massive torque. car presented here: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?448500-my-Clio-Sport-99BFF&p=7173011&highlight=#post7173011 The owner took me last...

mine with the dynolicious iphone application: 0-10 km/h:0.65 sec0-20 km/h:1.19 sec0-30 km/h:1.75 sec0-40 km/h:2.34 sec0-50 km/h:2.92 sec0-60 km/h:3.75 sec0-70 km/h:4.56 sec0-80 km/h:5.36 sec0-90 km/h:6.20 sec0-100 km/h:7.13 sec0-110 km/h:8.69 sec0-120 km/h:9.92 sec0-130 km/h:11.31 sec0-140...

1-1,5 mm max should do

got rid of the problem today I used some high temp silicone on the plenum-lower inlet area (below and above the gasket-about 1-1,5mm thick squeezed out of the tube, surrounding each inlet), and bought the missing bolt holding the plenum. the noise is gone, and the "revvin' when braking" initial...

it's one of those two closer to the engine (from the total of five which hold the plenum to the lower inlet, three towards the grille and two towards the engine)

I have a missing bolt there, but it's been like that for about one year. It had been over-tightened and the thread was gone. I guess that means a new lower inlet if I wanna screw another bolt in right?

I'm a bit scared not to damage the poor guy's stuff now if they're so sensitive. guess there isn't a certain way to get them out safely

will 172 sensors work? I wanna try what I've said above

the map sensor has two tiny gaskets(maybe the o-rings you are talking about?), one of them was lightly damaged. but the thing is, as I said before, I listened closely and the sound gets louder in the inlet air temp sensor area. anyway, I have a friend with a 172 ph2, are these sensors good to...

I think I won't be able to get this problem sorted till the end of next week, you think this can get nasty? should I leave the car for the next couple of days?

brake wise you could get the 1*2 setup like above^ but I wouldn't bother with an engine swap. valvers (even willy's) are pretty cheap these days, and you will probably end up cheaper buying one of those than doing an engine conversion.

yup the offset should be there.