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Don't go for 60mm on standard dampers.

Cambelt kit, Aux belt kit, camshaft seals, crankshaft pulley bolt, dephaser solenoid seal, sealant and all of the special tools. Eventually water pump, dephaser (if broken).

fastchip.nl! He does custom mapping based on logged data you'll need to send him. Maybe he is coming over if you'll pay him enough ;) You could seriously ask some of the tuners on here.

Do the same with a non-polished plenum and measure the time. Or be precise and measure the surface temperature. These few °K will make f**k all difference.

Did you speak to Henk regarding mapping? You could ship/fly the car over to Europe for mapping if money is not a problem ;)

Technically the gases flow through the plenum quite quick having not that much time to exchange thermal energy with the plenum. A reason why PTFE inlet gaskets are useless.

Coilovers for 172s and 182 non cup'd are the same aswell and don't give funny camber. Bolt spacing is the same, so i doubt that the struts are different (geometry wise).

Got mail mate!

Fresh engine mounts and a polybush'd dogbone are the best compromise between precise shifting and a comfy non-vibrating drive (imo).

I'm afraid it's not...

Bonnet locks love to fail when not maintained. Remove rust and grease them properly.

Last ones don't look that bad.

It's not a real gasket. You need to apply a sealant. Search for the Renault workshop manual on here or drop me a pm with your email-adress and i'll send it over to you. Everything is explained in there.

Comfy coilovers but no uber lowz. Decent quality.

1st: Check all engine mounts for play. Bolt on the gearbox mount likes to come loose. But most likely to be a damaged dogbone mount. 2nd: First of all, i'd check and clean the idle control valve. Inlet leaks will increase the idle. 3rd: What's wrong with the central locking? 4th: Complete...

Shot wheel bearing gets louder when loaded more. Just drive through corners or in a circle => if it gets louder on right handers, it's the left bearing and vice versa. I would change both bearings (better to get complete discs). Mind the little spacer behind and correct torque for the central...

A 182 engine would be best, due to the rocker cover and crankcase breather setup.

Keep standard wheels and install lowz? Both sets of wheels look gash.

FLOL. 24 hours delay iirc.

I'd rather s**t in my hands and clap than driving this. Poor little Clio.

172 cup suspension has the same bolt spacing as 182 non-cup. I'd go for sportlines and yellow KONI's.

^This! Reasonable priced aswell.

182 non-cup'd shocks have the same dimensions as the 172 items.

Nothing wrong with the K-Tec top mounts. The pure motorsport is neater and stiffens the front end a bit more.

If the dephaser fails at a later date, another full timing belt change is needed. When replacing the timin belt a decent specialist will check for signs of play in the dephaser. Bring it to BTM in B'ham.

Great! What power is the K4M running?

Do you keep the standard 1.2 ABS unit?

Tried disconnecting/reconnecting the battery?

Why don't you go for the 172 rack? Column and rack shouldn't be that expensive second hand. What running gear (brakes, hubs, shafts) are you using? 1.2 or 172?

Pump is electric, isn't it?