Search results

Breaking them is a pain in the arse. Takes at least two full days if you're doing it on your own. To realise the full value youve got to take everything off the car, even silly little clips and mountings can be worth a fiver each. Then you've got the messing round with selling it all, packing...

just get it reconfigured on clip.

Nope but sort of:wink:

Subframe has got two lugs at the rear so lines back up. No reason for tracking to be done. Only replace crank seal if it's leaking and it's rare they do.

Can also be handbrake switch, the bracket can bend and stop it from working.

Probably the battery on the car, give it a good charge for 24 hours if you can. Also it's worth sticking a new battery in the fob, it's probably ok but I've had plenty over the years where there is enough life left in the battery to light the led but not to actually send a signal. While the...

Drop me a message.

yup, if you can graph the lambda but it's probably on it's way out.

that's probably because your knackered injector has killed the lambda sensor :wink: should just about feel a change not a kick.

did you sort the leak out?

also not sure how well the timing would work with the inlet, i was due one in to set up and was going to have a play around with different cam timings to find optimal but it's been postponed for a bit. shame as was looking forward to seeing what we could do with it.

it's an injector. vanos is bmw and should be no 'kick' at 5,000rpm if everything is fine with it :wink:

you need someone who knows their s**t to set it up with the group n timing. it's not just a case of remap and done, got to do other bits as well otherwise idle will be stiupidly high and it will stall most of the time on start up.

that's a round black one.

it doesn't or at least shouldn't.

have you wound them right down to softest setting?

done it plenty of times and it goes back pretty much bang on where it was.

few ways around it. can mark and measure where they are set to or wind the spring down and just drop it down off the top mount.

no problem either.

shouldn't have any effect on it.

yup, got to whip it off and take top mount off. doesn't take long though.

the top hat on the bilsteins sits ever so slightly lower than the shoulder on the damper shaft, only about 0.25mm but with solid top mounts you can get a bit of a clunk. spacer or few shim washers sorts it.

plenty of ways around it. full engine and box swap but would need to sort shafts out and hydraulic clutch. turbo and manifold straight on clio engine and box. run it low boost. no messing with shafts or clutch. as above but with megane pistons in clio engine. can run more boost that way. as...

You only want a thin smear of grease.

Probably why it wouldn't go on easy then.

Did you pack sleeve with grease?

yup.

what top mounts you running?

is this since the bilsteins were fitted?

some are bloody horrible to find!!