Search results

It should already have it and if not it may be worth having your clockset bulbs checked.

That's a Gates timing belt kit and an auxiliary drive belt

I've seen one explode before but that wasn't anything to do with the pulley itself. Normally they go noisy and stay noisy and just effect power delivery and fuel consumption.

There's no law that states how long a dephaser pulley will last i'm afraid. One variable that seems to make a huge difference is regular oil and filter changes but I'd personally expect a 100% new dephaser to last a good three to five years with proper regular servicing (Minimum once a year IMO...

Yeah we can sort that if you have the C2i's written down

sbridgey I don't think she'll make it this one lol

You've read the manual regarding the use and function of this system yes? As the vehicle is under warranty I'd take it to your nearest dealer and be done.

Normally I'd agree Oscar but I've just checked a 182 for a customer which had a terrible idle and poor fuel economy and the belts were done by a main dealer (not my place to name drop either party but they are on CS). It was wrong, simple but to make matters worse the cam setting points were...

£590 with the VAT for belts and dephaser at present using genuine Renault parts

1 - New key blade if you can remove the broken blade or new locks. I'd try and remove the old one though if you can. 2- Central locking is working indicated by the indicators flashing. You'll need to check that the UCH is sending the actuation command to the locks and also make sure the locks...

I know, talk about milking it

Unplug the CTS then but I have never heard of the fuel pump control circuit being governed by engine temp (ever). Just remember the Mk1 has X2 CTS inputs (one for the dash and a second for the ECU)

I can't condone the use of them but the Renault manuals are available to download or even buy on eBay... They will help you out a great deal.

I still have flashback nightmares about your car Karl when ever a LY R26 comes in

The fuse box schema is on the rear of the cover

It's normal on the older type breather. Get a later tube type from a 182 and you'll cure it.

What Omex is it? I'd imagine it's a CAN interface

Silver lining... nice new exhaust now on greatly improving grin factor when driving. I still think you need to clean it as I hate dirty cars lolz

No bother I'm only doing VAT returns and an R26 A/C issue tomorrow so you'll be saving me!

It's always a risk you take. You've had enough of them to know the score but sometimes you advise in the interest of the vehicle and longevity but the customer thinks you're just trying to up - sell. Did you buy it?

Was it me? LoL It's a tricky one as I genuinely don't know the car or the customer. I know I always check them and try to get the customer to budget for the dephaser. It's rare we do them these days without replacing them though. In fairness though it could have been fine at the time of the...

Sounds like you've got a power feed the wrong way around... Read the manual carefully and check everything. Did you need a patch lead? If so it may be an issue in there.

Scott as mentioned above and failing that PC Autos. Both have done work for me in the past and don't mess around with shoddy work. That doesn't mean they're gonna do it for £100 though as proper paint costs! PC Autos also did a repair and paint job for a customer on a LY R26 and the job was...

Simple enough task on these cars tbh. I would advise you source the bodywork manual though which details exactly how this is done as plastic breaks and from experience isn't cheap to replace with new.

The Mk1 is extremely simplistic (unless it's a Ph3, Renault got sneaky with those). 1 - Disconnect the plug to the fuel pump. Then give it a direct +12v and a good ground by using something like a test probe. Does the pump run? No - Replace pump. Yes - See 2 below. 2 - Isolate the circuit and...

I love these issues. Normally simple if you just get all Julie Andrews on them - first question (of many)... ... check the fused link in the + battery terminal. Is it intact visually and using a volt meter does it have a good +12v either side of the link? Mick

Lambda related... its a guess but have it plugged in. I bet the heater is shagged in the sensor

Hard to say really as you are in the best position to check it out. Does sound like a connection issue

Just lay off full throttle changes as I'm sure Agency won't consider that as "normal" use.

Drive it as normal