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Also (just for info purposes) it's not as simple as just putting the genuine tooling in, changing the belt, locking it up and removing the tooling. When you do it like that it's probably a 95% chance the cam setting bar will not re-engage without some persuasion.
We've had one in recently that...
They're both as bad as one another for "tuning" I'm afraid.
NA tuning is just expensive for not much gain.
FI tuning is better result for the money but more likely to shaft the gearbox.
F7 in a Mk2 would take some effort to make work depending on variant used especially when the F4 will just...
If there's no fuel to the injectors then it isn't so either your description is wrong or you've got a damaged/kinked fuel line... my money is on the description.
Do you mean there's no fuel coming out of the injectors when you turn the ignition?
Tell him to read the f**king manual then because there's an entire page devoted to just that!
There's no way the timing will be right or would've been right when manually rolling the pulleys to check with that dephaser. Improper job done I'd say.
In short no! Going by genuine parts:-
On the Phase 1 there is only one type.
On phase 2 it's a bit more involved as the 172 without Cup add-ons are one type then the 172 Cup is a second. The 182 non-Cup is a third and i believe the 182 Cup packed vehicles makes a fourth.
I've seen a few where the bolt head sieze in James and have had to be hit with the impact gun to rattle them loose.
As Bigash says above, the disc needs removing from the stub axle to access the bolt heads. Then just hit the old one out and replace it with a new one. It is worth noting that x3...
Brake fluid is STOP plus the Brake warning light.
If the oil light is coming on then it could be a faulty oil pressure switch (not that uncommon) or it could be a genuine low oil pressure fault. Ideally it needs the oil pressure mechanically testing or you could just gamble on a switch as...