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It would be a shame to break it as there are worse cars out there. Maybe my workshop is like the old Grand Theft Auto and he car goes in a garage, the shutters roll down and that's it - fixed. I'm sure a new circlip will see you right again and as long as there's no damage to the casing it...

Check the inlet track for any signs of leaks. The ATS and MAP sensor would be my first points to check.

I'm in a similar position myself as I had no drive after chasing Chi hard at Blyton. Coasted off track and in to the pits so the session wasn't shut down (because hero) and had no drive. Got it loaded on a truck with a winch then home and the fecker reversed off the flatbed (it also had 1 thru 5...

Any movement = replacement required im afraid. Sometimes it is just one of those things that happens. I've seen the K4M dephaser units fail after 18 months before but honesty, never a 172/182 unit.

Magnet would be my first choice yes. It will have been pushed out so that limits the space which it can fall in to. As for the eBay item I can't say for sure as I've never seen one but I guess it could as it's effectively what Renault did to the later ph2 boxes. Enjoy drilling the diff in-situ...

Yep, circlip has gone pop and it will be hiding inside somewhere in at least two bits. The bolt in diff could be used yes but it's a box rebuild job. What you need to check on your existing box is for damage in two places: 1 - the slot that the circlip goes into. Make sure the edges are not...

Any modifications or additional electrical consumers in the car?

Could be anything really chap, something mechanical but most likely electrical. Honestly, I'd advise a proper data logging session on a proper diagnostic rig rather than a code reading session to find out what's actually wrong.

Yeah that is " Dee You En" (Done)

The easiest way to prove it IMO would be to scope the wheel speed sensor outputs as a picture can speak a thousand words. Normally the ABS/ESP program will not allow for a 2% difference in speeds as it has to interrupt and react to smaller percentages in extremely small timescales so this will...

New RSport rear spoiler arrived for the Megane today. Put it in yhe que for painting so will get it fitted sometime next week. Also priced up some nice 18" wheels for it, saw Renault wanted just over £300 each without tyres so sacked them off.

Poor connection then

It doesn't see them as slipping, more likely it will see the front wheels rotational speed as 'X' and the rear wheel speed as 'Y' and so is flagging the wheel speed data as inconsistent to allow the ESP/ABS program to work.

The oil in No.4 is a common issue and most likely due to a leak. It shouldn't however cause a non start (in exceptional circumstances it'll cause missfires) so I'd say it's an electrical gremlin (blown fuse or popr connection somewhere) or a crank sensor issue

Boot lock is another fairly common issue. Check the connector hasn't corroded and of so clean it. If that doesn't work it'll be a new one

Possibly an adaptives issue but I'd say it's more likely to be something else like an air leak or electrical issue. Try the above but if it doesn't work get a proper diagnostic session on it (not a code read session).

Not common but as above a certain failure in the end for all springs. Replace as an axle pair with lowering springs. Personally I'd ditch the Apex as I think they're terrible but that's my opinion based on experience.

It's the chosen method of Renault to vary the inlet valves variable position. Some call them "Variators" but Renault call them " Dephasers". There is no official service schedule on them but they are (or should be) inspected at every belt change and if any signs of movement or free play are...

Inspect the ring and make sure you have 44 teeth. Have seen a few of these recently after having non - gen replacement shafts fitted with 38 or 42 teeth which causes inconsistent speed readings.

Probably not the clutch but the gearbox chap... diff circlip is the common one.

I'm sure I've got some of those gaskets laying around to ;-)

I know, what a proper wrister eh! It's the first time in 4yrs I've taken Christmas off but I've had a load of calls today so I'm sure the inbox will need some pruning to so i may as well take an hour to sort folk out.

I'm having a rare bit of time off however emails will be tackled tomorrow chap so if it was sent via the website I'll have a reply for you by dinnertime tomorrow. Mick

An air leak will deffo be the cause. You really ought to replace the gasket with an actual item but silicone will serve as a temporary measure

It's a tricky one to explain and I'd still want to know why a 4 month old tensioner has failed before considering fitting another new one

172 Cups don't alway have the bonnet open/close switch but it is 100% for this. You also tend to find people just disconnect them and throw the switch away when a faulty switch causes false triggers for example.

Thank you, correction of my terrible spelling is always appreciated... you're my hero.

I've got 421's (some say identical to 423's) and I love them and what they've done to my mildly modified track toy. Power from 4k to the limiter has no let up but I also run an RS2 inlet but I've seen some great looking graphs on standard inlets to.

Regarding the above 5th/Reverse end issue, when this happens you tend to find it won't stay In 5th and it'll pop out under load.

I personally won't ever quote over the phone/forum unless it's for a fixed price item such as timing belts. I always ask people to email via the website so every request for info is stored. My system automatically looks up duplicate plates and customer details to so I can see who is a...