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Every circuit needs power and earth. If one earth is poor then the circuit won't work. What makes you think the gearbox to body is the faulty earth, have you tested it? There's three earths under the bonnet for the EM/starting circuits so it could be either of them.

Firstly, i don't like throwing the "timing out" excuse but for what its worth/gonna cost pop the end caps, lock the crank at TDC and check to see if the horse shoe fits. If that's okay, compression test Mick

We do them for £560 on FF's including oil and filter or its £465 on a Cup Mick

If the readings are the same at idle/fast idle then there is a connection fault and you've missed something. Are you 100% sure you had the correct wires in the correct place? Mick

The problem is its a 1.2 16v and they're plagued with electrical gremlins that cause all kinds of problems. Firstly have the wiring loom at the back of the engine checked as its common for damage to occur in this area. Mick

So the voltage supply and earth are all good and the sensor and heater lines are continuous with the ECM?

The sensors themselves rarely die but the pins are common for degrading/corroding when water gets in so this should be your first check. If that's all good then you will need dings to confirm the resistance value is out of range and if so, replace it (or you could just take a gamble and replace...

Low voltage will be due to just that... Probably not a current fault. The lateral crash sensor is behind the sill trim and can be done without stripping the seat out but its tight. Mick

A second opinion is needed then. If it has crash data then it can be removed (for a fee) or you can try a second hand one but it will need some config work I'd say unless you buy one from an identical spec vehicle. I wouldn't recommend buying new

LoL - Yeah, you'd *think* wouldn't you but a "service" to most places these days is nothing more than screwing on a new oil filter and chaning the oil for £99. This is not a proper service so they proberbly wouldn't look or even care if they did.

That will have no bearing on the engines idle speed though. Is the high speed issue described above a constant fault or is it occasional?

What alternators are you buying and have you checked to make sure the exciter line is putting out 12v?

Sounds like a pedal related issue. Have there been any drive ability issues?

You need to check the actual wiring on the car between the plug at the sensor end and the ECU. Something somewhere is broken hence the "open circuit" and it will stay that way until you find it.

I got done like this with a SORN before that I actually sent via post and guess what (? Rhet) I still had to pay the fine. They've got your name and address against that registration mark (which show every other detail as being correct) so if you're sure it's not yours and refuse to pay a fine...

Standards + springs = D U N

If it was a Mk1 there could be a few scenarios but not on a Mk2... It'll be because someone jet washed the bay. Glad you sorted it

Look at this on eBay: Renault Tunepoint iPod/USB/jack audio Connection Box http://bit.ly/RYmjS8

Find out what is causing the misfire on cylinder 1 Is it the injector or the coil/plug. My money is on the coil Mick

That'll be unburnt fuel entering the cat causing the sulphurous smell. Most likely an ignition coil or injector fault.

It may work straight away as the auto-adaptive a may pick it up.

Chris, if you need it then anyone with CLIP can hook you up chap. If it happens its a quick job that even a local Stealer can rectify but don't let them charge you am hour for it as it takes 10mins at most (including boot time and plugging in)

As a race or just the one? LoL

It's gay but can't be helped.

You cannot "reset" the immobiliser! It is the key at fault... Squeezing it whilst holding the button does nothing but prove a fault on the PCB with the exciter. In fact I'm like Ducan Valentine and "I'm out"

It'll be as above mate, take somewhere proper... LoL at "it's on Coilovers"

A new key is likely to cure this yeah but it may also be a UCH fault... Something else not cheap! Easiest thing, and I say this not as a trader simply trying to extract £25 from your pocket, is have it plugged in on CLIP! This will do more than "code read" as firstly it will inspect the...

You may need some UCH re-config work to Chris if the new stalk doesn't work straight away. They are configured at factory with a few options: Rain sensor: with/without Automatic wipers: with/without Variable speed wipe: with/without It may need updating to work.

If you're close to Nottingham pop it in and I'll fix it properly for you. I've had two X65 Clios, a Laguna II and a Kangoo this week alone with similar issues... Must be the weather Mick

They're funny things on spec level the cup-packed 182's... you should have speed controlled intermittent