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I personally prefer to take actual measurements. I had a Vivaro today showing over 15v at the ABS module on CLIP but Mr Voltmeter showed a nice 14.3v at fast idle on the actual power line. Don't always believe the computer ;-)

Where have they measured this voltage from?

Obviously it needs attention but I think you'll be okay for a while. Mine needs a new pump and whines for a few minutes and then goes quiet until you push the steering hard again... It's on the Christmas shutdown "To Do" list for me though.

Check all the flaps are moving. From memory, the air mix flap is in the passenger side footwell. Could just be the solenoid gone pop but it could be something else requiring more in depth investigation. Start simple and check the flap. Mick

Mine does it all the time... Cheap supercharger mod yo!

If you collect and return it I'd let you borrow mine over Christmas. I also want a deposit in case you decide to keep/scrap it. Mick

So what's been done?

Yep, put it in the top cap, torque it down an the remove and compare spread to gauge clearance. Brilliant stuff

There are always capable people lurking about but you have to hunt them out. "Abnormal voltage" suggests to me a fluctuating voltage which would go some way to explaining why you're having problems if it can be proved. A flat battery normally results in a battery "Low voltage" message (In CLIP...

It's a standard bracket on all F4's be it a 1.8 or 2.0... Renault put lifting eyes on nearly all engine platforms at factory.

They normally come on after a flat/disconnected battery yes. They should vanish after a short drive over 10mph

If the vehicle is spinning over when the button is pressed then that rules out the imob. It could indeed be a lack of fuel pressure as the MkIII is becoming common for pump problems but I'd personally want an independent/second opinion. It could be something as simple as a crank or cam sensor...

Is your sump cast aluminium or pressed steel? If its cast ally use the steel/rubber unit and the copper washer if not.

This is on a MkIII I'm guessing? If so it needs CLIP before you do anything drastic/destructive.

We do the genuine Valeo kit for £370 but as we're in Nottingham you'd have to travel which kinda defeats the point. Mick

AutoData - subscription based book of lies!!!!

We should hit the Sherwin or Hooters again. As long as there's parking and Symon can be in a different section to the rest of us I'm in (he scares me with his uncle nobby touchy feely hands).

Easily checked: Connect diagnostic equipment, enter live data area, crank engine and take note specifically of the "engine speed" value. Does it show rotation (Eg. 0rpm turns to 200-300ish rpm)? If so its not the crank sensor and attention should be moved to the ignition coils and injectors...

Yep I totally agree but then again common sense is, ironically, not very common is it. Take for example the person on this very site that took it upon himself to fit some resistors to the steering wheel airbag circuit so he could fit an aftermarket wheel. Took the wheel off, fitted his new one...

The standard non-Cabasse HU is limited but yes, decent speakers will be a worthwhile upgrade.

If you can afford to do it then do it and that's it, done for five years

Daniel, I agree that the standard Clio II setup is shockingly bad but the newer stuff in general is great and even the Cabasse in my Laguna II was amazing in comparison. Decent component speakers alone will make a HOOGE difference.

Just be carefull doing it please - SRS scares the s**t out of me still yet some of you seem to have no fear and just go ripping things out. #ignoranceisbliss

The routing goes from the UCH (Passenger footwell area) through the bulkhead via a big connector (Which you will need to remove the wiper gear and washer bottle to access) then in to the engine bay (specifically to the black plastic box under the bonnet) and from there is goes to various other...

Most likely cause is the wiring under the seats... could be anything though really and to get an accurate answer to your question it'll need diagnostics Mick

Has it settled yet? If not, sounds like an inlet leak so check the TB seal Mick

Code read first then use the information presented to fix the actual problem. It's why diagnostics were invented and deployed ;-)

Live data says?

You have a brand new UCH sat there and you're willing to "give it a go"? They're use once only parts which is why Renault expressly forbid the use of "virgin" state components to "test" on cars so I you want to waste it send it to me and I'll put it to far better use on a project car. Besides...

You got me, well done