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Yeah the process of moving the config data is easy enough if you've got the equipment but the problem with UCH's are they are a ticking time bomb on every X65 on the road as at sime point a component will fail. I love my Clio and if it cost £280 for a new one vs £180 for a used one I'd go new...

The phase 2 does not have a dedicated IACV as the throttle plate is stepper motor controlled which performs the same role by advancing the throttle plate slightly as and when it's needed to stabalise the idle speed. I personally find cleaning them out helps a great deal especially when they've...

Plug, ignition lead, injector, engine condition on that cylinder. How do you know it's missing on one specific cylinder?

The rear is supposed to give a constant value IF the CAT is working right.

Unlikely on just one specific cylinder.

I agree and correctly functioning Brembos are amazingly sharpe to and the pedal being spongy is text book seized pad(s) The pics don't look too bad

What's the condition of the inside face like?

It depends on the car. The older ones like the original Megane was four digits but in the Clio II CLIP requires a slightly longer code to allow/enter programming.

Nope, its normally around 12 characters long and a mixture of letters and numbers.

^^^ This then ^^^ Those Brembos are a pain in the arse if you don't keep on top of them with regular servicing.

When you actuate the stalk position can you hear a relay in the UCH's area "click"? Its not as scientific as plugging it in on CLIP to see what the switch position reports bur it should help rule out a switch/relay fault vs a dodgy motor.

CLIP cannot "cooy/paste" programmed data from one unit to another non-virgin unit I'm afraid. As above, that route is not simple but possible by electrical engineers with some very specific equipment.

Sorry to butt-in but to do what you want isn't as easy as it sounds. Whoever is doing this will need both UCH's to firstly copy the original vehicles security and config data from and then dump it on on the replacement... not a simple task which will require some serious equipment.

Providing it's another Clio wheel yes, it'll fit fine.

I've gotta be honest, I don't like that kit as they're too bright (Maybe its just the photos). The idea behind the cabin lighting (to me at least) is that it emits just enough light to allow your eyes to comfortably see the interior without it flooding the cabin with red or making you visible to...

Got a link? Are they just LED's?

Its not a commonly found option on Renaults but it was fitted to Espace IV's, Laguna II's and some late Scenics. It should be easy enough to retro fit something if you're okay with general/basic electrics. You could use the light units from any of the above and work the Clio plastics to accept...

At £200 its not a bad buy but it needs a set of keys really, maybe a UCH (unlikely) and if you don't already have it the security access code to allow you to program the new key(s). If Renault do it or someone with access to Truecode you wont need the access code.

I never understand this either as the normal reason for wanting this is because it supposedly increases the "feel" of the steering but ive never found hydraulic assistance to be particularly bad in this area. If you take it off sell me the pump and brackets please.

Its the specification standard and will be on the back on the bottle somewhere

You should be okay with that assuming it meets GL4+

CLIP first and go from there chap. If I can be of any help after with the results just give me a nudge. Mick

Sounds like either a new key hasn't been coded or it needs a new key.

CLIP time needed then mate. From your description, I suspect a fault with the camshaft sensor/camshaft target/signal synchronisation/dephaser

First thing you need to do is clear the lot out and take it for a drive to see if they re-appear. Then if they do you need to fault find on those systems reporting the voltage issues. Check alternator output (again) and maybe try with the charge link unplugged also. Then test the voltage...

Self fixing French cars... They'd never catch on ;-) I bet its a key fault which if true will return.

197/200?

As above, spare key first then, if it still plays up you'll need to check the induction loop (rare that these actually die) then confirm the ring has power, earth and a coms line to the UCH. If all is good with the above and its still playing up then a new UCH needed you will. Mick

The Clios run a MAP sensor not MAF

Hai and welcome to CS. Don't forget to join the Midlands group.