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Codes aren't date stamped so you can never be sure what is current vs what is historic. Normally I'd advise against clearing the codes as you wipe the context information but in this case I'd be tempted to wipe it and take it for a short drive to see which comes back as current then go from...

Jesus Dan, what's with you ATM - period? I did read the first post and he said: So it had belts but no pulley and now he would like some quotes and advise on getting the pulley changed... Which I believe is what I did. Just because I mentioned saving money as you did, did you assume I was...

Mint news mate but don't count those chickens just yet... French car! (LoLz) Mick

Code reading it on CLIP or other equipment won't show much at all but looking at the live data and going from there will. Like ChipMk1 said in another thread, generally "mechanics" are good at fitting parts but rarely do they know how the internals and sensors actually work. With that in mind...

Needs plugging in again to say for sure mate. Sounds like a target issue to me

I'd check it personally and if there's signs of excessive play I'd change it if it's noisy or not. Timing belt and dephaser changed at Diamond Motors to CS members is £560 using genuine parts and belt kits. Its okay saving a bit of cash and if thats your driving constraint we'll do timing...

We only fit the Valeo kits to due to bad experiences with LUK

Throttle restriction problems (more commonly called "limp" mode) are so much easier to diagnose on CLIP as there are 14 different status codes alone which report why limited range/engine performance alone is being put in to effect. There's no black and white rule that says it won't r RB above...

Still "bahdahdaa-dap-dahdaaa" loving it

Not stuck at 4k Dan, won't rev past 4k (how I read it anyway) A loom fault is the most likely scenario

You can't I'm afraid, it needs CLIP to set those and possibly even REPROG as its a little worrying why/how it's lost this data.

DF226... Well there's a problem so start there. Sounds like it needs CLIP time to me Mick

It's because you've stuck a fat finger in there... It's a stepper controlled TB so what were you thinking? As you've tried to actuate it, which is always going to fail, it detected the torque on the throttle plate motor and simply shut down as it reports a blockage in the butterfly. Now how to...

I'd speak to the dealer you've ordered from because that price sounds like they've included for CLIP time.

You could try A brick on the pedal! LoLz

Renault made DSG... Alarm bells are ringing already lol

I can't honestly see them only offering a semi-auto/auto box option and i'd be willing to bet a go on my Mum that a manual option is in the details when they finally come out. Personally, I'm glad they've dropped the Brembo units though as they're nothing special and they're an expensive...

Oh yeah it's possible but as above you would need something to stop the cable movement and the advance/r****d the throttle position. Vauxhall have had a system that does this for years but it's far easier with a dbw tb setup

Re: CLIO IV RS for 2013, Last news It's bound to be an option Martin as there's no way they wouldn't release a manual version... TL4 is bound to be the standard unit I'd wager. Too much piss and wind in here at the minute though and non of it based on fact.

It's a bit too big for my tastes but I'm sure painting it will make it look 10times better even at that scale. I'm certain someone will create a replacement grille for it though like they do for the Vauxhalls.

Re: CLIO IV RS for 2013, Last news It's not like the Clio has all of a sudden become huge. The Clio III was a larger car and I can't see this being much bigger than that. I'm not a fan of the huge front diamond but I'm sure there will be aftermarket replacements available for them but on the...

I doubt it... The stepper mechanism alone to hold and actuate the cable throttle alone would be a huge job to fit and get working not to mention the controls which is why Renault never had cruise until they did away with cable driven bodies.

You just need to remove and replace the seat/components and no, it won't re-deploy anything. You will also need to remove the SRS ECU and either replace it with one that hasn't deployed or pay to have the crash data removed.

You must have done more than that mate because non of that should effect the clock sets operation. If in doubt, put everything you took off back but I suspect you've also attempted some wiring work.

It'll possibly be because vehicles with ESP have the requirements (hardware wise) that cruise needs: brake pedal switch, clutch pedal switch, clock ring with capacity for wheel button wiring due to having an SAS. Deffo can't be done on a phase 1 without changing the ECU, MTU and throttle...

Handbrake mech is either seized or is shot... It's pretty common tbh. It's quicker to buy a refurbished Bosch/Lucas item I'm afraid and just replace your faulty unit. Mick

Hahaha, my phone is being turned off then!

Schematics really do mean the difference between winning and fail as they give you a proper overview of the circuit. Even on its own, a good wiring schematic is one of the best diagnostic tools you can have on your side. What are you trying to wire Jaff, A/C? Mick

No, afraid not as the pedal setup replaces the throttle position sensor and the numbers expected are in a different range (voltage not resistance). If you're making the jump to aftermarket ECM's I'd give the Emeralds a look to.

Pete, be sure to ditch the DBW TB setup and go for a Ph1 cable driven setup... that will deffo resolve your problem and make the choice of ECU easier also. Mick