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Deffo a cooling circuit fault that. There's no way a stat would make it jump as described if it was faulty. My guess is massive airlock, faulty CTS (unlikely) or head gasket due to incorrect maintenance. Mick

Yes, it unbolted from it... Is that not what we're already saying? The main cable and fuse block are one and the terminal connector is another part. FFS do I need to take pictures and label them?

It's there to act as an anti-surge protection device whilst the starter is in use. Worst case it *could* try to shag your sister or damage the ECU but they are extreme examples.

You could remove it and add your own connector but the fused link is there for a reason. It will work without though. Mick

Nope, it's part of the cable "assembly" which I *believe* is around £48 + vat

The fuse is part of the wiring loom and available only as part of the charge/starter circuit cable. The battery terminal itself is available separately Mick

Get a photo so we're sure we're singing from the same Hyme sheet. Mick

No, the fused link is part of the starter motor wire. The terminal is just that.

They all it a fuse because it is... 120A iirc You need a new battery terminal which can be purchased from Renault. Mick

Paul, seriously... Don't! I know that one day Kirsty and I are gonna get married on top of a mountain, and there's going to be flutes playing and trombones, flowers and garlands of fresh herbs. And we will dance till the sun rises. And then our children will form a family band. And we will...

Light goes on, light goes off = not security/key fault on any modern Renault from 1999 on.

Yeah the washer reservoir is a sneaky bugger in the X65. The PAS reservoir cap is often on TIGHT though so eat your shreddies.

What stays on, the EFL? No, that's nothing to do with the key. Personally, and with all due respect, I think that if you've not done anything and all the fuses have been confirmed as being okay then this will be beyond your ability to fix. Without seeing it/having the ability to test certain...

No it's hydraulic and the reservoir is located on the firewall on the right hand side... Near the coolant reservoir. Mick

I'd check the starter solenoid control +12v wire to. It's not as common as it was but the wire is known to break or corrode at the terminal over time resulting in this very fault. I had this on a 182 this very week and sure enough it had come off... A common Mk1 fault raises its head again.

I wonder if the sub still blows up Evo's and attracts dirty cruise skanks? I'm in!

Not always because its not that simple and you need to know/understand how the system works. If the red light is on solid and then goes off after 2-3secs then the security system is working fine ad the vehicle is authorised to start using that key. I've not read the full thread, why problems...

See others say that to but I've never had problems with them.

It's the Renault equivalent of "have you tried turning it off and on again"

It's gonna need plugging in really to find out what's going on. Have you tried locking and unlocking again? It's not imob related as the car is allowing you to spin it over so its more likely to be something daft like a fuse to a circuit or a main power relay. Mick

Cheap leads/coil pack? They should "click" in to place really.

Cable ties are common "fixes" on Renault driveshafts but they rarely hold. As above, use a decent jubilee clip but I prefer the proper steel bands (granted though, not an on the driveway/DIY application)

Electrical Fault Light... Check fuses and all connections to the battery first. What else did you do (why did you remove the battery)? Mick

Some aftermarket cams do require some modification to the cylinder head casting to allow them room to rotate... I stress *some* and it tends to e the slightly wilder profiles. Check the manufacturers website chap. Mick

Josh/Kat at Renparts Lyndz... They will get you one. Mick

I still can't believe how well this car looks considering how sorry it looked when it came in for belts. It really is a credit to you mate.

Normally yes, if you have the wiring the infrastructure is there but it's not a cast iron rule and different equipment needs different hardware to make it work. Ideally it needs diagnostics to be able to see what the controllers are seeing (in the case the UCH and ECU)

Looks about right to me chap. As above though there's normally a ring that helps.

You can find out what level UCH you have by looking at the sticker on it. CLIP can only tell the hardware what to do If it is capable however I don't believe an N2 can run cruise control though. It could turn out that the problem is withy the dash loom also not having the lines from the wheel...

What UCH have you got on your car, N2 or N3? I suspect that the UCH needs configuring but a quick session on CLIP will confirm or deny this as well as rule out button faults. Mick