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Right firstly I need to understand the problem so lets start at the beginning for beginners. When you put the key in the ignition and turn it to position II (all power lights on), what is the "state" of the red immobiliser LED: Flashing @ 1hz Flashing @ 4hz Solid (then OFF after 3-5seconds)...

LoLz - Throttle bodies are not "consumables" even in a Renault.

Fingers crossed then mate

I use somewhere else that's closer to home (Derby) and he's an ex-Hewlands guy but I hear good things about Agency

Fuel present but is it actually coming out of the injectors? Check all fuses and connections and report back Mick

LoLz - it's a myth mate it needs diagnostics to see what's wrong first. It's very rare the SERV light comes on alone though about sounds like someone has tampered with it to hide something. Mick

About £350 for a full refurb

I'm not bad (for a ginger) ;-) Glad you sorted it mate... Support bill on its way LoLz Mick

The radiators aren't massively pricey no, I believe about £64 for a non-genuine Nissens unit but the pipes I'd try and find second hand as try will cost a fair bit more new from Renault. Look for vehicles being broken or give Josh/Kat a call at Renparts Mick

I'd be surprised if its the actual ECU at fault mate, honestly but have a good luck and let us know how you get on. Mick

Not entirely true... Different vehicles have different specs. Some have xenons, some have rain/light sensors and the UCH's are configured to each individual car. If you put a UCH to a car that it's expecting say a rain sensor on and it doesn't have one then boom, there's a configuration...

UCH fault Mike... They are bloody funny things when they go wrong. Needs CLIP to confirm though before panick buying. Mick

A bit yes... Now you've got to diagnose the electrical circuit to the pump as its either the controlling side or the supply side that's at fault. Starting at the pump end work backwards and inspect the wiring loom for damaged wiring (trapped, crushed, exposed/shorts) and be sure to check all...

A flashing MIL is purely telling you that what ever is wrong has the potential to damage your CAT... Normally a coil or injector fault Mick

Are you sure there's a good, stable voltage at the pump?

Meh! Have you got a good earth and 5v reference at the pedal Chip?

It's the relay control circuit mate. Fit a jumper and drive it in ;)

He must've done that after 1pm cos before that (before he's had 2 Redbulls and 5 cigs) he's blind as a bat LoLz

Okay, before you go out buying things lets try jumping the relay pins to see if it's a pump problem or not.

More likely to be corrosion at the terminals tbh but there's no harm in swapping the clicky bits to. Jut make sure there's no nasty nasty green stuff when you pull the old relays out.

Which ever isn't working yes but it won't be the cause of your random cutting out car.

Deffo a wiring related fault there with the H02... Low voltage and heater function will be caused by the same thing, no power and as you've found out simply changing the sensor will be of no use. I'd wager all your faults are down to a faulty loom or poor earth hiding somewhere.

He's always in work... I hear his recent track car build did bloody well yesterday at Donnington to. Dan will equally be able to sort you out so I guess it boils down to location, location, location

Personally I'd say you need Fred to hook you up. I'm not a tuner but I believe he does the GT cams fitted with new belts for £900 then you just need the remap.

Grinder with a cutting disc straight thru the exposed bolt section at the joint then as above, replace with genuine fitting kit.

Use a genuine water pump though not an £11 white box cheap thing

That's where I'm at with my thinking now Gaz because the scope traces show no faults what so ever and I just cannot replicate the fault. The only fault logged was the knock sensor but that wouldn't cause a stall and failure to restart condition. I also suspect it's got the wrong plugs fitted so...

Yeah they're right but it's actually for the LHD Cup vehicles which really suffered with rubbing issues in the drivers inner arch liner area. I've fitted a few myself for this very reason... I believe the short loom is around £27 now and It's much quicker to run 5 new wires than it is to strip...

Chip, try the CPS an loom but I'd still be tempted to run five wires directly from the pedal to the ECU to see if that cures the issue. Mick

I'm there with Paul now... They are another option.