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That's on a bit more than "hand tight" then... You sure you were turning it the right way?
If it were me I'd be using a flat drive and a hammer to try and knock it off. Be careful though as the housing is only cast.
Mick
I've got no experience with Omex units but if I can help I will. What unit have you got and I'm assuming it has built in Coil drivers?
Your coil has a good, stable +12v yes?
If the unit is fuelling then it is obviously seeing engine rotation so I suspect a driver/module fault.
If its been fitted by an approved installer it'll be located behind the wiper motor or behind one of the front arch liners.
Sometimes the controller is hidden away behind the dash which may have a brand or serial number on so try looking for this.
Cruise is probably down to a input failure such as the brake pedal switch. Ideally needs plugging in though to be sure.
3rd brake light... Welcome to Renault!
Probably due to either water ingress killing the lamp unit or a poor connection at the rear of the unit... Pull it out and have a look...
There is a chance it is the UCH as it does control all of that but it could also be a wiring fault or a fault with the clusters (though its strange for both control clusters to go at the same time).
If it is the UCH at fault you need to fin out why it's gone (age, moisture ingress) to stop it...
!!Off topic Alert!!
Seriously Kieran...
I've been thinking for a while about pushing some products in the new year, one of which is a range of Renault specific "race meters" (After seeing James's car at Fred's I'm keen to do more bespoke wiring installs for track cars to). I am looking into a...
Mk1... Gay (not that I wanted them at all for my R19).
If you do decide to get all anal/OCD with this one get Dunc to give me a call. Also, tell him I've still got a timing belt kit a water pump for his dads Fabia
Want me to make you one? It's a Maplins shopping cart special ;)
I'm actually wanting to improve on it this time and add a secondary display adding boost temp, coolant and air temp (numerical) peak vs actual.
The wife's tCe does 43mpg and seems to run everywhere in a month on £30 but the Laguna only manages 32-36mpg (it has claimed 42.4mpg on a run with cruise on but I do t believe it).
It will still be running boost though which is what a boost gauge measures.
My Laguna recently hasn't been pulling as well as it does normally but I took it to see Paul at RS Tuning for its remap regardless and en route noticed peak boost was down and it struggled to hold a decent level but...
I love mine in the Slaguna... It changes from white to red when I'm close to peak boost and even the Missus wants to shag me when it happens (it's that good) LoLz
Come off the vac line to the wastegate actuator as this will be fed from the inlet. Try an get as close to the inlet as possible though rather than at the actuator.
Why have boost gauge? Because turbo car (N/A boys just don't understand)
Are you sure the SMD is functioning? I'd try it with a DMM set to continuity an ten "push" the switch to see I your meter beeps.
If it does there is another fault on the PCB or if it doesn't replace the switch.
Mick
Okay, disconnect the coil pack, remove the INJ rail out and have it facing up with the fuel line connected.
Now crank the engine... Are the injectors firing?
(It would be far simpler to scope the injector triggers but I'm guessing you don't have a scope)
Mick
Right so we've ruled out security and infrastructure integrity. Moving on...
... The basics - Fuel line off the rail. Turn key on but do not start the vehicle. Fuel flowing out?
Mick
Diamond Motors