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There's not much there to go on mate, any more info? Mick

CR is totally different between the turbo and non-turbo

Another reason is because if the belt run fails or jumps (due to say incorrect tension or general belt fatigue) it normally ends up wrapped around the bottom sprocket... Which also slips the timing and bends valves.

Cleaning the TB *may* help the low idle issue (and its good practise to keep it clean so won't hurt) but the 3k peak at startup makes me think you may have another issue such as a minor inlet leak. Any other symptoms such as a blowing noise, poor mpg, etc? Mick

Looks like a bolt leak to me but as Fred said above, you won't know until you take the upper plenum off for an inspection (I bet the dephaser solenoid seal is leaking to). Take off the upper plenum, clean the entire area then one at a time, undo the cover bolt(s) degrease/seal and replace then...

Someone spent all their pocket money on that! Deffo a repost but I never get bored of it... Shame its not in a Retro Renault though :( Sent from my BlackBerry 9900 using Tapatalk

It'll be a second hand TB and pedal. I've just replace a pedal on a '53 1.2 16v today at a cost of £54 including the VAT. Have you considered that maybe the used parts you have fitted may also be fekk'd? You really should have the car properly diagnosed rather than guess and then spunk your...

I guess ultimately the car is going to need inspection as the tensioner issue is another highly probable cause.

Like I said on page 2 I had one in with this exact fault and a new dephaser fixed it. CLIP can confirm it to so I don't get why, if there is a problem, it isn't changeable under warranty... I guess they're treating it as a wearable part so not covered. Mick

It is Jonny so doesn't have a relay controlling it especially not from the UCH. It has a dedicated feed from the battery and the rest is controlled/managed by the ABS module. The relays you speak of on the back of the UCH switch the front fog lights, int wipers, etc

I think you need that looking at properly. Where are you based? If you're anywhere near Nottingham I'll gladly take a look for you. Mick

Still sounds high to me to unless you were giving it beans. I'm not saying its timing but I'd want to see the live data to see what the MAP, H02 and CTS were doing.

Pretty common fault on the Laguna II this and required the replacement or removal of the faulty sensor iirc.

What you really need to do is get the car looked at properly buddy as there's deffo a problem here aswell as a possible timing issue. We've had a spate of coolant temp sensors recently and this will drag the MPG right down to but they're cheap and simple fixes. Timing is pretty easy to confirm...

Technically they're bad but really there's no right or wrong with them... they're essentially a carbon copy key with a duplicate S3 from your original. From a diagnostic point of view though they are wrong as the car cannot distinguish between which key is being used at ay one time so it makes...

It is possible that the anti-tamper mode has been activated but it normally takes a lot more than an EODBII dongle to trigger this. Open the bonet > passenger side inner wing area > big black plastic box that isn't the air filter... open it > Inside you will find x3 blade fuses; 5A, 15A, 30A >...

I agree with Fred on this one and also build them in to my costings. They're on for around 5yrs and like all seals they have a finite lifespan. Just had a 182 in from Leicester that needed the dephaser following a "recent" belt change (Which allowed me to get some pictures of why the "TipEx"...

Jamier, they're called "Clones" and are becoming very popular at the minute.

Yes, they can be done but this is why you need to get them from an identical spec vehicle.

I can't make this now boys... bit wounded as i've been given my orders; got to take my daughter to a 1st birthday party instead #fun

I'll reserve final judgement until a proper press shot but damn, that's a big b**ch! Sent from my BlackBerry 9900 using Tapatalk

Just a guess but I'd say either Battery, poor battery connection(s), broken earth or starter solenoid control wire corroded. Mick

I'll supply and fit a non-genuine radiator and do the coolant for £180 if you're close to Nottingham. Mick

Probably going to be the switch at the end of the day but for what it's worth, I'd stick an oil pressure tester in to actually measure it to confirm/deny it being to spec. I say this because whilst the oil pressure switches are fairly common at age and the pumps aren't. one common problem I've...

A dealer isn't gonna supply and fit plugs to an F4R for £36+vat Matt

These things are getting so cheap now... I was gonna buy the Dash2 which is only £100 more but after seeing the Dash4 I'm sold.

That's the electrical fault light so Diagnostics will be the best place to start. Probebrly something electrical lying or simply out of spec.

okay, fair enough... just remember though that not everyone is in on the banter and may actually take your comment(s) seriously.

They had to provide it under block exemption rules chap and was part of the PDI check list. Technically its vehicle specific information and so should be provided with the documentation at the time of sale along with other bits of info such as the radio code though this was often not always...

Go easy mate, no-one said he was a pro. The OP simply asked if there was anyone local that could help and he could.