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Any interest in this on here? Looks like a spiffing excuse to fly the flag http://www.festivalrenault.com/

Sodemo pushed a fairly reliable 320bhp from the F7R NA for the

If it were mine, i'd de-alarm it and add a cheap TOAD or CLIFFORD alarm to it to work the central locking for you.

What car is it please? The red LED staying lit is saying there's a fault with one of the main systems in the car. Could be wiring, could be a box of tricks but it deffinately won't be the starter motor. Sounds like a UCH fault or wiring to it to me. Check your battery condition and terminals...

Becasue the speed limits in the UK prohibit speeds like this? What colour is the smoke? I suspect it'll be ring damage

It depends on your vehicle but generally a Clio II Ph1 single button is about £165 from us... Renault will be a fair bit more.

Lamda is but one of many sensor the ECM uses to decide how to run the engine and any sensor not functioning within spec will cause it to make decisions based on incorrect values which results in poor running. Yours may be faulty but then again it might not so changing any of these sensors...

Not really no unless the sounder has a key switch. The only option you have is to remove it fully... its normally a dealer fit option on cars of this age so you'd need to remove the sounder, the control box and most importantly remove the wiring in full making sure to repair all of the interupts...

You *should* (Assuming its a Renault fitted option and depending on model) be able to arm/disarm from the door locks to. If the drivers lock isn't working try the passenger side and if this doens't work you will need to get a new RF keyfob programmed. Mick

Are you seriously looking for a genuinely good R19 16v shell for £250-500... LoLz, it'll never happen Mike. Honestly, when was the last time you even saw an R19 16v (Ph1 or Ph2) on the road? The ones that exist still and more importantly that are worth doing anything with are firmly in the hands...

That's a "how long is a piece of string" question cos it depends on who is doing the work. If you've never changed a box before I'd say it'll take you 3 days; there's a days work in pulling the box off, another day to rebuild it and a final day to replace it. Cost wise on the box rebuild alone...

Did you check the spark plug wells before you pulled the plugs? I bet they had oil in them and when you pull the plugs the thread and electrodes get covered as the oil tries to flow down in to the bore.

The worst thing about Helicoils is they can un-wind which isn't nice when you're simply trying to service a vehicle and the owner didn't know/care to inform you about it. As you can't see them in the spark plug wells its often too late by the time you've noticed so it leaves the servicing...

If you become a paid member you will have access to the classifieds section and you'll be able to see and contact people directly. I promise you, it's money well spent. Mick

Did you do any of the above? It deffo sounds like something is drawing more current than it should be due to a fault or short. Mick

If it were me... Head off and use a timesert I'm afraid. I really hate helicoils and there's no way I'd risk doing one in-situ as you cannot guarantee getting all the swarf out before it does some damage. Mick

Just be sure it's not too lumpy or lifeless especially when cold as a faulty upstream H02 sensor is often considered "normal" when in truth it's anything but and they only have a lifespan of around 50k before they should be changed. Mick

Not really no - Which ECU and what software are you running? A modern Renault has anywhere up to 12 separate computers in it and the CLIP II has around 5-6. A wiring fault between any of them can stop the vehicle from running. Mick

Try to find a vehicle breaking as it'll be the cheapest option and there's a few being done on here at the minute. Mick

Jay, there's problem number 1... Like most garages, the people you've taken it to are complete muppets who "code read" which does nothing apart from give you a start point from which to start looking from and without a code they're incapable of doing any work (because in truth, they don't know...

Most likely the rear engine mount gone. Mick

I'd say try diagnostics rather than guess and change everything. Mick

You'd need to find a local company in Yell or Google. I use a man up the road who used to work for Hewlands (and he's still a rep) so knows how to do these but you really should be careful buying a secondhand box as you've got no idea of its actual condition... And diffs aren't cheap! Mick

Was the water pump and PAS replaced with a genuine parts as the autofactors do the water pumps for as little as £11 and they're s**t! Deffo sounds like the PAS pump but you really need the aux belt off to be able to check the pulleys for movement. If you want to rule the dephaser and timing...

Birchdown are a decent setup and I'm sure that if it's their doing they will sort it out but there are other things that could have caused the premature demise of the belt so go easy, stay calm and just speak to them. Granted you're upset but don't go all Rambo on them as it will get you...

That's the UCH inhibiting the vehicle starting because of a fault. Most Common on the 1.2 is either the keyfob itself, the decoder ring or, get ready for it, the UCH itself is faulty and they're about £380-400 from me to supply and code up and Renault are a fair bit more. As mentioned above you...

It's saying there is a fault with the throttle body circuit so before you go out and buy a new one I'd get it properly diagnosed (no offence to your mate). Throttle bodies are known on the 1.2 but they're not that common and as they're far from cheap I'd want to rule out the cheaper items first...

It is fairly common and will be as a result of the upper cam covers leaking at the seal. Mick

If you're happy then fine, keep driving it, but just because it seems to be running fine and there's no warning lights it isn't scientific proof that it is right and a proper diagnostic session isn't just plugging in the CLIP and looking for fault codes. I had a customer come in with his...

Sounds like either a MAP, H02 or TPS issue to me but really, a diagnostic check should confirm. Mick