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Martin, gimme a shout when you get the Speedlines. I'd very much be interested in those wheels for my Laguna so PM me when you're ready/get yer thumb out lol. Mick

Erm... it can't? The only difference between the bottom ends that I was aware of is the compression ratio. You can then mount a 2.0 sport head, inlet plenum, etc to the Scenic block - this is how we did James23's Scenic. Mick

Probably the hazard light switch

Make sure everything is plugged in correctly especially the MAP Sensor.

Have you trieed the rest as above? Mick

That's £580 fully inclusive with no hidden extras. This price will most likely be changing slightly in the new year so if you want to take advantage of the lower price I'd book it this week. Mick

Looks okay but is that the actual item? Just call GSF and get one for your car then know its right... can't cost much more. Mick

Its part of the UCH i'm afraid and not user serviceable. Earth points are footwell and in boot load space.

Can't really say how difficult it would be to fix without seeing the vehicle. Deffo sounds like at least the ECM has been decoded to allow it it run the car and technically your insurance is void IF the car is stolen as the factory security isn't working. Probably not worth the cost if i'm...

Self fixing car... mint. I wish they'd invent one that filled itself with petrol!

Agreed, the lack of decent apps for the QNX platform as a whole is a serious problem for RIM but that should change from Feb'12 when we get an update that puts a new Android Marketplace icon on our desktops and the ability to run them (properly - some *claim* native mail, calendar and unique pin...

On the D4F its slotted in to the thermostat housing which is properly hidden under the airbox on the right side of the engine. Mick

I'm pretty impressed with how well my better halfs 1.2TCe goes tbh... bargain at £6700 to for a '10 plate. The '172 is getting on a bit now so why not get a '197 instead... far nicer car to be inside IMO and are coming for good money these days. Mick

Needle in a haystack i'm afraid matey, it could literally be anything... sorry

Could indeed be a faulty CTS yes but check one of the wires hasn't snapped or that its not just been unplugged by some pikey in the past. Renault will supply you a new one as the D4F uses a different type to the F4R. Mick

It could be anything... rain/light sensor, door switch, reel sensor or just an electrical connection having a bad week. Needs CLIP time to say i'm afraid as i doubt a generic P code would have been flagged. Mick

You sir have bought what we call a lemon! Okay, not exactly a lemon but the light is flashing fast to say the key being used is not authorised to start the car as the code hasn't been recognised. This means either an elaborate wiring bypass has been done to remove starter and main power control...

It protects the gearbox oil seal from FOD entering or building up around the seal and damaging it... part is not available on its own i'm afraid and only comes as part of the driveshaft assembly. What is the problem with yours, can't you knock it back on? Mick

Any leak will upset the post-cat sensor reading as more oxygen enters the system so leaks should be stopped first. After that, pull the sensor and give it a good clean with something like brake cleaner (no, WD40 is not the same and shouldn't be used). Take it for a good run at motorway speeds...

Also check its not melted near the exhaust manifold... a fairly common sight. Mick

if its the standard "anti-spin" type locking wheel nut commonly used on Renaults since 2001 then a socket smashed over the top won't do dick.

decat fitted?

Get it sent back and fast... that doesn't mean drive it about fast until its fixed

long spanners for the win!

AST/Snap-on do a tool thats simple and effective but unless you're doing them all the time its not gonna be worth the cost. Why don't you just pay someone to do it for you and save the hassle? Mick

They're not that bad... fiddly but not throw your tools at something bad. Buy the complete kit from Renault though

Yep that will be just fine. Just don't use it all... normally 3l is enough but these boxes are fill to overflow. Mick

Could be a simple issue with the IACV needing a clean. It could also be CTS or Ho2 related. Mick

Coil is the most likely cause BUT as Jonny pointed out above it could be anything and really you need a proper diagnostic session to say for sure as guessing can get pricey and on items like coil packs you won't get your money back if you buy it, use it and find it doesn't fix it... electrical...

The alarm, IF its a dealer fit item, will be there purely to get the vehicles security to Thatcham catergory 1 so will have nothing to do with the key or its code... its a noise maker and nothing more. This has been covered (to death) before but i'll repeat it again for you. Firstly, confirm...