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I'll need your vehicle type code and gearbox code matey to be able to look it up. Drop me a PM Mick

Were there any otehr codes stored along with this prior to being cleared especially DF009 ? Chances are it'll be either a faulty "Dual Air Valve" Solenoid or there is a wiring fault... Pop it in and i'll gladly take a look at it for you. Mick

Did you buy the cam pulley nut and bolt seperate then as Renault do a service kit containing everything you need bar the crank pulley bolt.

Simple slim-line spark plug removal tool

What Clio? What Engine? Have you checked to see if fuel is getting up? We can't offer you a mirical answer without seeing the car i'm afraid so the more info you give us the better we'll be able to help you. Mick

Yep, that'll be the banjo bolt for the dephaser pulley and dont forget to fit those new oil seals that come in the bag to ;) Inlet cam bolt = 100Nm, Inlet cam nut = 30Nm + 86 degrees (+/- 4 degrees).

What car is it Gary as it sounds more like IACV issues? If the car cuts out/stalls out the battery and stop lamp will come on and unlikely to be the alternator or wiring. If it comes on when you're driving/idling then its possible.

Well, if you're stuck the offer is there

Come to Nottingham and you can borrow mine for the weekend

Keep your drain points clean, ensure the windscreen doesn't leak and don't feed it after midnight. Apart from that there's not much you can do really other than ensure the inside area isn't getting wet. I've got a Billabong coming in today with what I suspect is more UCH joy as the girl said on...

If you look closley you can see where the printed tracks have burnt out... if there's a cleaning product that can repair that then let me know about it.

Not really no - Be prepared to shell out £380 I tested the UCH relay responsible for the unlocking on the above unit and found it to be buggered so it was replaced with a new part along with any obvious damage to the PCB tracks which was repaired and the board reflowed... this didn't work...

A good idea but wouldn't work. What happens when say the camshaft sprocket tool gets damaged or the crankshaft lock pin gets bent but isn't found until the someone else recieves it (and potentially uses it) in a damaged state? This is why I don't lend my tools to people - they cost me enough...

I bet your UCH, when pulled from the car, ends up looking like this:

And they call me a geek ;) No you're right, there are three plugs @ Stephen - Can you get a photo of the passenger connection showing the face of the multiplug please? As for the dephaser you can pretty much drive it if you like but when they get really bad, and to be clear i'm talking...

If the UCH was unplugged (It only has two multiplugs anyway) it wouldn't allow the vehicle to start. Yep, sounds like you've purchased a problem child. My advice would be to either sell it on and walk away or take it to someone to get it fixed up correctly as its not going to be cheap...

Most likely cause is the UCH is fried i'm afraid. I've had a couple of these recently where the UCH has gotten wet and its taken out the central locking relays and the PCB tracks. If it were one of my cars I'd whack it on the clip and see if the UCH is detecting and attepmting to "switch" or...

That's a fairly serious overload... any idea what circuit it's from? The loom can be fixed if you can identify what was what I'd say but i'd also be checking all the fuses to make sure they're the correct ratings for each circuit as I suspect that's been caused by an incorrectly rated fuse...

Main control relay is a good place to start looking and simply jump it out to see if it solves the issue. Mick

Could always bring it over to Nottingham for me to sort at DiamondMotors Mick

The 72k or 5 years means which ever comes first rather than a choice between the two. I'd get it done... you're 5yrs in

Pete, its going to be easier to get a new belt and I'll come over and hook you up matey ;) Remember, your upper engine mount is shot to and if the engine is canting under load the outer edge of the belt may be getting fraid. Mick

I'm here to run a business, try to provide a genuine service and not scare cash out of anyone... personally. I hate that aboutgeneral garages but sometimes the scare mongering is justified and I honestly believe the F4R timing belt service is one of them. I've just done a gorgeous petrol blue...

If it was an air leak in the inlet track it would be holding a high base idle... normally 2.5-3k rpm. Deffo have it plugged in for a live data session... could be H02, CTS, MAP - the list goes on.

Re: Misfire issue which is solved by a restart - spark plugs, leads, coilpack 6 month Pull the MAP sensot, blast it with carb cleaner, dry off the refit and retry.

Don't panick as that's the MIL - It really needs plugging in to say why its on i'm afraid but normal culprits are H02 sensors. Mick

If the engine symbol MIL was on then in short, a fault code would have been logged. Either they didn't want to tell you what the fault was (it happens a lot as a garage doesn't want you to go fix it yourself or take the work elsewhere) or the kit the were using was shite. I've seen a few...

Want me to add some NGK's to the list for Wednesday Adam? Mick

It's 100% timing belt on this engine and an easy one at that with nice, clear markings. There will be loads of guides floating around the net to help you setup the valve clearances... failing that, a local garage will proberbly do it for under £25. Mick

@Matt, You may be better off starting your own thread rather than attempting to hijack this one as I suspect your fault isn't the "same" as the OP's due to you having a de-cat... do you have an egg smell in your car? @Ben, If the hacksaw is too destructive for your tastes right now remove...