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It could also be the main control relay... seen a few of these give up also. In truth you're not going to know exactly what it is without plugging it in to see if the ECM is seeing rotation when you crank it or not. Mick

And that's why you never rely upon fault codes... always confirm the fault with Live data and actual component testing. Proberbly a wiring fault on that circuit causing the fault code to come up with faulty sensor.

It'll be the H02 sensor for sure... most liekly the heater element starting to give up. It might not actually give any fault codes though so don't pay for someone to read the codes and say "Nowt wrong with it" as it will need a trained eye looking at the H02 live data to finger.

No such thing as "Just a plain key" anymore, it will have an S4 chip built in to it... how else do you think the imobilliser system is deactivated when you use it? Has the key ever worked with starting the car before? You never did answer that. Mick

To my knowledge there is no such thing as an "Engine Tilt" sensor. There is a Accel/Yaw sensor but without proper diagnostics you won't know what it needs.

Snap... I hate it when 'they' do that. Jonny, I use a soft jawed vice just to hold the profiles solidly in place whilst you use an air gun or breaker bar... sometimes, when thread lock has been used, its the only way. Mick

Its normal for them to do this a little as they never run 100% true due to the assembly design but how much "Wobble" are we talking about; More or less than a few mm? Mick

Its suffered something at the hands of complete moron(s) that tried to use the camshaft locking tool as a camshaft pulley imob tool, hence the damage to them... see this all the time on 1.4/1.6 16v units that use a similar setup. Still, all done now and should be good for another 5 years service.

you snapped a crank pulley bolt!!! Animal lol

Fred, its a legitimate business tactic Sam has there... hook em with a low price to get them in the door then slam them with "extras". Main dealers have been using it for years lol

The spare should have a transponder in it... no doubt an S4 chip. This is required to deactivate the cars security. Has this key ever worked?

Its a common fault tbh but chances are its not the pedal potentiometer itself at fault but the connection. Disconnect the multi-plug, Clean the multi-plug and connector to the pedal Re-Assemble Clear codes... you should now have pedal function back and no sign of the returning code/3k limit. Mick

Mistake #1 - Whenever you fit new discs you should always fit new pads. Have you cleaned up the pad carrier, greased up and taken the edge off the pad seat tips? Mick

Nope, sounds like you've lost the transponder then and there's no way to bypass it. Has it ever worked and if so, what have you done recently to make you break itout and use it again? Mick

Does it unlock the car with the remote fob? Battery life okay?

I will do it, but there are two conditions: I cannot warrant your parts... that's down to your supplier I cannot warrant the job based on a part failing... eg. no consiquential loss or replacements If you're okay with that then i'm in Nottingham. I also want to know exactly what parts you have...

"CTS" is an abbreviation for "Coolant Temp Sensor". This is the little unit that sits in the engine which reports back to the ECM the actual coolant temp. The ECM then uses this information for several purposes; one of which is to send the clock-set the information to display to you. If the...

No of course not silly... I'm not normally a mail order business but I don't mind offering parts out to members from time to time. Postage on those items though should be under £6 I guess. Mick

Leaks are normally found in the exchanger unit seals and the exchanger itself due to strike damage. Not necessarily a leak though... System integrity could be 100% and so holding pressure just fine but isn't working due to a component failure such as the relay or even something as daft as the...

If you're looking for standard Renault service parts I can do the following: Air Filter - £12.00 Cabin Filter - £8.00 Oil Filter - £6.00 Mick

Re: ABS, ESP and Service dash lights on ... speedo and cruise work fine, no fault cod What diagnostics are you using? I suspect you're getting no codes as the equipment is either cheap Asian export crap or not up to date fo the vehicle. Bring it in sometime and i'll gladly take a look... if I...

Spearmint Rhino again aye Fred? You'll go blind (and end up wearing glasses like me)

Do I get a further discount if I buy bulk... say 15 units Fred?

I agree, that's a fair bit of work indeed and £1071 for a Renault franchise to do it all using genuine parts, not after market, isn't bad at all... as a comparison i've just worked out my price for that little lot and it is £665 less the 12k service (which is another £90 so £755 all in). Still...

LMAO - Either that or he's got for his quarterly haircut... it can take a while

Either a clockset fault, CTS fault or wiring. Silly question but I assume the heater is still pumping out cracking hot air whilst the needle is doing its "thing"?

Really, you think? I see it and think "In so much of a hurry to get it home you took it in base coat" Lovely car and that interior is cracking... not a personal fan of the colour choice though. Enjoy it Mick

STOP!!! You'll ruin your pulley if you're not careful - Rotate the crank back a few degrees (this is to allow the valves room to open slightly if required without risk of them bending) then insert the camshaft pulley lock tool and imobilise the pulleys. Loosen the bolts securing the pulleys to...

NWP currently have them at £169... I'm cheaper at £158 so they're clearly not the cheapest about :rolleyes:

Its very hard to pinpoint a rattle in the bay as there are a lot of noises all occuring at once but the dephaser does have a habit of sounding like its the entire top front of the engine as the cam is rattling about rather than being secure. 15minute job to confirm it as the dephaser - remove...